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Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
China Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: DS
Page Views: 1,880 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Oct 17, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

The Siege could be considered the test piece of French'es Dome. The business comes early on this route, the first 20 feet contain the crux. Tenuous sidepulls coupled with a few long lockoffs characterize the crux, into an interested match. As you move over the bulge the climbing eases off greatly, so long as your pump doesn't ruin your redpoint.

Location

To the right of Pump-o-Roma

Protection

8 or 9 bolts, two bolt anchor

Photos

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dmPete  
Thanks, Micah! Makes sense, just didn't see it in the list where I expected, so didn't look at the description! Sep 6, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
That would be Philanthropy, listed next to this route in the route database. Sep 6, 2017
dmPete  
I was at French's this last weekend and saw The Dark Side's new glue-ins (Sweet! Thx Micah!). I was a bit confused, though, as there seems to be another line that shares the first couple bolts and then veers left and up for about 5-6 more bolts. The hardware is (I am guessing) expansion bolts and hangers, not glue-ins. They look pretty new, and I don't recall seeing the line before. It's sandwiched between Pump-O-Rama and The Dark Side.

Anyone know what this route is, and when it was put up? Sep 5, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
This route was rebolted with ASCA SS glue in bolts in July 2017. Aug 8, 2017
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
 
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
 
My god, did I make this description 9 years ago? Daniel, Id chalk this up to the follies of youth. Interesting to see the grades here drop and the grades at the RC rise. Jul 23, 2015
danieljordan
Portland, OR
  5.12b
danieljordan   Portland, OR
  5.12b
Cool route, but really just a boulder problem down low to easier climbing. I'd disagree that this is Frenche's test piece...Perhaps when the description was written it was, but with the ever-changing nature of the routes, in addition to a couple of newer routes, I'd say Dark Side is just another fun Frenche's route...slightly better than most of them! Jul 23, 2015
Eric Schnepel
Portland
  5.12c
Eric Schnepel   Portland
  5.12c
Super fun route. Maybe the best on the Dome; if a bit chossy. Definitely much more powerful than Pump-o-rama, but much less pumpy. I would say the bouldery and sequential moves down low definitely make it a notch more difficult than Pump. Maybe 12c minus Aug 3, 2011
phillip Hranicka
  5.12b
phillip Hranicka  
  5.12b
For the record- Dave Sowerby called this thing The Dark Side.

I ripped a hold off that changed the sequence of the crux, but strangely didn't make the route more difficult, just different. Jul 16, 2010