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Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Balloon Knot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 534 total · 11/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

BSD is the direct start for Road Rage. Rather than starting as for Road Kill, start at the edge of the first built tier, and go straight up into Road Rage to the Road Rage anchors. Thin and sustained crimping until the 4th bolt clipping hold, then about 20' of sustained 11+ edges with only one decent hold to get a quick shake on until about 2/3 up. Then it gets easier to the anchors. Fun and powerful movement through the crux.
I'd recommend stick clipping the 2nd glue in bolt, as it is very hard to clip during the crux.

Location

second route to the left of Road Face (first prominent bolted route when you reach the crag.)

Protection

6 bolts - Merges with Road Rage at the 3rd bolt.

Photos

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Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
 
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
 
BSD was rebolted with ASCA bolts SS glue in bolts on 9/1/15. The bottom old wedge bolt was left, as it could be useful if you were climbing it without a stick clip. However, I've never heard of anyone climbing it without one, and in that case, it's a rather pointless bolt (9' off the ground). Clip it if you want, but its recommended to stick clip the 1st glue in bolt. Sep 1, 2015
Ryan Patridge
Portland, OR
5.12b
Ryan Patridge   Portland, OR
5.12b
I climbed this today without a stick clip, and it felt fine. I could reach the wedge bolt from the ground, and clipping the first glue-in felt strenuous, but not insecure or dangerous.
Ryan Jun 5, 2016

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