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Routes in French's Dome
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[Redacted] S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Balloon Knot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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China Syndrome S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crankenstein S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dark Syndrome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Golden Shower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pump-O-Rama S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Static Cling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Dave Sowerby |
| Page Views: | 1,221 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2014 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Description
BSD is the direct start for Road Rage. Rather than starting as for Road Kill, start at the edge of the first built tier, and go straight up into Road Rage to the Road Rage anchors. Thin and sustained crimping until the 4th bolt clipping hold, then about 20' of sustained 11+ edges with only one decent hold to get a quick shake on until about 2/3 up. Then it gets easier to the anchors. Fun and powerful movement through the crux.
I'd recommend stick clipping the 2nd glue in bolt, as it is very hard to clip during the crux.
I'd recommend stick clipping the 2nd glue in bolt, as it is very hard to clip during the crux.
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3 Comments