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BSD

5.12b/c, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 17 votes
FA: Dave Sowerby
Oregon > Mt Hood Nationa… > French's Dome

Description

BSD is the direct start for Road Rage. Rather than starting as for Road Kill, start at the edge of the first built tier, and go straight up into Road Rage to the Road Rage anchors. Thin and sustained crimping until the 4th bolt clipping hold, then about 20' of sustained 11+ edges with only one decent hold to get a quick shake on until about 2/3 up. Then it gets easier to the anchors. Fun and powerful movement through the crux.
I'd recommend stick clipping the 2nd glue in bolt, as it is very hard to clip during the crux.

Location

second route to the left of Road Face (first prominent bolted route when you reach the crag.)

Protection

6 bolts - Merges with Road Rage at the 3rd bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] BSD was rebolted with ASCA bolts SS glue in bolts on 9/1/15. The bottom old wedge bolt was left, as it could be useful if you were climbing it without a stick clip. However, I've never heard of anyone climbing it without one, and in that case, it's a rather pointless bolt (9' off the ground). Clip it if you want, but its recommended to stick clip the 1st glue in bolt. Sep 1, 2015
Ryan Patridge
Portland, OR
5.12b
[Hide Comment] I climbed this today without a stick clip, and it felt fine. I could reach the wedge bolt from the ground, and clipping the first glue-in felt strenuous, but not insecure or dangerous.
Ryan Jun 5, 2016
[Hide Comment] Historical note: bolted (as far as I remember) by Greg Lyon. FA David Sowerby Dec 14, 2019
dmPete
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] Hey Dave, what does BSD mean?? Aug 16, 2022
[Hide Comment] I was using BSD Unix on my computer at that time, before I moved to Linux :-) It could also mean Bull Shit Direct as I didn't think "Road Rage" was .12a LOL :-) Aug 19, 2022
dmPete
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] Ha ha! Thanks, Dave. No doubts about the direct version being a 12 :) Aug 21, 2022