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Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Balloon Knot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: 1966: Bill Cummins, Steve Heim, Jan Cummins
Page Views: 974 total · 15/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on May 15, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route (although seldom climbed) has much to offer in the single pitch adventure category. The climbing is unique and awkward the whole way. Follow the obvious ramp left placing gear when possible until this ramp moves upward and dissipates. The crux is the last section of face climbing. Anchors are straight up despite seeing an obvious set of anchors out to the left just before the crux.

Location

Starts just left of Psoriasis on the obvious ramp that continues leftward around the crag.

Protection

Portland Rock Climbs book states 3" but I used nothing bigger than 1". Chains at top to rap. Expect run-outs as there are very few spots for gear.

Both vintage bolts have been replaced with SS 1/2" bolts as of 10/18/14. Both old bolts were left for history's sake. It is obvious that they should not be clipped. The route is more like PG13 rating now, since any fall will be long, but clean, and on a good bolt.

Photos

The FA team rated this 5.8 !

Climbed it on two occasions, long ago. We knew it was a sandbag and guessed the grade as 5.9+ (back then, everything hard was dubbed 5.9+). Now it's 5.10b?

It is a whipper of a fall at the crux, but as long as the bolt holds there is nothing except air because of the steepness. Jan 14, 2014
Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR
 
Derrick Peppers   Terrebonne, OR
 
I rarely change the grade from what is listed in the local guidebook but I do agree that it doesn't feel like a 10b. Jan 27, 2014
"I rarely change the grade from what is listed in the local guidebook but I do agree that it doesn't feel like a 10b."

Are you saying it feels harder or easier than 5.10b?

thanks

Chad Jan 27, 2014
Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR
 
Derrick Peppers   Terrebonne, OR
 
A little easier. 10a (opinion) at the crux if you compare it to other routes at french's dome. Jan 27, 2014
Gotcha, thanks. I've been curious about the route.

Chad Jan 27, 2014
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.10a PG13
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.10a PG13
Both old bolts have been replaced with SS 1/2" bolts as of 10/18/14. Both old bolts were left for history's sake. It is obvious that they should not be clipped. Oct 19, 2014
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.10a PG13
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.10a PG13
Led this today. It's a bit sketch getting to the first gear placement off the ground. Then it's fairly easy but awkward climbing with marginal gear until you get to two new bolts. Save a 1" cam for the final runout finish, on big but mossy holds. There are 4 old, super sketchy, original bolts on this line. Two have new bolts next to them, and two were left as is, due to good cam placements next to them. I wouldn't recommend clipping the old bolts. Jul 1, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
  5.10a PG13
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
  5.10a PG13
Note that the route is almost as risky for the follower as the ground doesn't get any further since it is a traverse going along with a hillside. Place gear often to protect your 2nd. Jul 2, 2015

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