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Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
China Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Phillip Hranicka
Page Views: 974 total, 15/month
Shared By: phillip Hranicka on Sep 12, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Philanthropy is a "choose your own adventure route" starting from either Pump O Rama or The Darkside before climbing through 4 new bolts on fun, overhanging, juggy terrain.

Starting from Darkside adds a few fierce, sidepull moves after the crux before the headwall. This certainly is more difficult than the original Darkside, but it might not warrant a bump in grade.

Starting from Pump O Rama, Philanthropy avoids the P.O.R. crux by veering right after the 4th bolt. Clip the first new bolt out right and follow jugs up the steep bulge. Despite huge holds the rest of the way up, the climbing is quite pumpy. This variation makes for a nice 5.11+ addition to the crag. It might be a touch more difficult than Crankenstein. See what you think!

The route is (surprisingly) as clean and solid as anything at French's. However, keep in mind that the route is new and the rock may crumble a bit in spots.

My fellow, beloved humans- have at it!

Location

The steep prow between Pump O Rama and The Darkside (AKA The Siege).

Protection

4 bolts plus anchor with fixed biners.

If starting from The Darkside, clip the first two bolts, fire the crux, then reach up and left to clip the first bolt of Philanthropy. BE CAREFUL with this clip! Blowing it could mean hitting the wooden tier down and right. It is possible to clip a long sling out right (Darkside 3rd bolt) before committing to Philanthropy.

If starting from Pump O Rama, clip the first three bolts before finding a stance out right to clip the first bolt on Philanthropy.

Any potential rope drag issues can be mitigated by clipping long slings to either the last bolt on P.O.R./ Darkside or the first bolt on Philanthropy.

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danieljordan
Portland, OR
  5.12b
danieljordan   Portland, OR
  5.12b
Pretty fun little route. A bit harder than the original darkside, but in my opinion, not warranting a higher grade. Clipping the 3rd bolt is a little intimidating, especially since the best hold to clip it off probably won't be there much longer! Thanks for the route, Phillip! Jul 23, 2015
the new bolts go left after the crux of darkside, to a chain anchor, but the anchor with fixed biners is at the top of the right bolt line. so im confused as to which is which Jul 3, 2015