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Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Balloon Knot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
China Syndrome S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vance Lemley, Tom Kingsland, 1986?
Page Views: 7,540 total · 51/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Oct 17, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description

The only moderate route on this portion of the wall. This route features long reaches between good holds. The climbing eases after the 5th bolt, however the pump crux might throw you. A clipping hold broke near the 5th bolt recently, which has made the clip a bit harder.

Location

To the right of The Siege

Protection

8 bolts, two bolt anchor

Photos

Replaced the rusted, duct taped anchor biners with new Trango steel biners on 5/27/15. Had to hang one of the new biners from a rusted quicklink, since I wasn't able to unscrew the link with a wrench or hang a new link straight from the bolt. If I feel really industrious, I might haul bolt cutters up there and clean the old quicklink to clean the whole thing up. May 28, 2015
Louie
Santa Rosa, CA
  5.11b
Louie   Santa Rosa, CA
  5.11b
Just awesome. Get a belayer you trust and have fun clipping some really nice glue in bolts! Jun 23, 2017
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
This route was rebolted with ASCA SS glue in bolts in July 2017. Aug 8, 2017
austin bullard
Somewhere
austin bullard   Somewhere
I found some pretty big holds that were stacked on the ground under crankenstein last week. One of them was definitely that huge jug that has been wobbling for years. There's still a big X mark under where the jug used to be but I meant to brush the X off because it's now a solid usable hold. Not exactly sure where the other 2 or 3 holds came off the route but it doesn't seem to bump the grade up.. possibly slightly easier now that there's a decent rest near the top. Oct 10, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11b
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11b
One of the FAists, Tom Kingsland, let me know that the original name of the route was China Syndrome. It has now been changed and I hope that this resolves the controversy. Please message me directly instead of posting comments. Oct 3, 2018

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