Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vance Lemley, Tom Kingsland, 1986?
Page Views: 7,602 total · 51/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Oct 17, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

58 Opinions

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The only moderate route on this portion of the wall. This route features long reaches between good holds. The climbing eases after the 5th bolt, however the pump crux might throw you. A clipping hold broke near the 5th bolt recently, which has made the clip a bit harder.


To the right of The Siege


8 bolts, two bolt anchor


Replaced the rusted, duct taped anchor biners with new Trango steel biners on 5/27/15. Had to hang one of the new biners from a rusted quicklink, since I wasn't able to unscrew the link with a wrench or hang a new link straight from the bolt. If I feel really industrious, I might haul bolt cutters up there and clean the old quicklink to clean the whole thing up. May 28, 2015
Santa Rosa, CA
Louie   Santa Rosa, CA
Just awesome. Get a belayer you trust and have fun clipping some really nice glue in bolts! Jun 23, 2017
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
This route was rebolted with ASCA SS glue in bolts in July 2017. Aug 8, 2017
austin bullard
austin bullard   Somewhere
I found some pretty big holds that were stacked on the ground under crankenstein last week. One of them was definitely that huge jug that has been wobbling for years. There's still a big X mark under where the jug used to be but I meant to brush the X off because it's now a solid usable hold. Not exactly sure where the other 2 or 3 holds came off the route but it doesn't seem to bump the grade up.. possibly slightly easier now that there's a decent rest near the top. Oct 10, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
One of the FAists, Tom Kingsland, let me know that the original name of the route was China Syndrome. It has now been changed and I hope that this resolves the controversy. Please message me directly instead of posting comments. Oct 3, 2018