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Routes in French's Dome

Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
China Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crankenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Chan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Static Cling S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Matt Spohn Aug. 2011 (Bolted by Ryan Palo 2009)
Page Views: 1,248 total, 16/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Aug 24, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A very interesting and pumpy route that links up a lot of French's harder routes. The crux move comes in the middle, with an off-balance lock off and high step, but the beginning is powerful and the end of High Voltage is the redpoint crux, containing big moves to decent holds. The rock is a bit crumbly in spots, but for the most part good when it needs to be, and it will only get better. There are good shakes too, so use them wisely, because the pump will catch up if you don't.

Location

Begin up the Dark Side (the Siege) and start traversing right after 2nd clip into China Man and then keep traversing, crossing Jackie Chan, BSD, Road Kill, Road Face, moving always upwards until you end on High Voltage, clipping the last three of its bolts. (The shiny bolts are the ones added in order to connect everything together, so look for them.)

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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phillip Hranicka
  5.13a
phillip Hranicka  
  5.13a
This link-up is a worthwhile endeavor if you've ticked the rest of the wall. It's a bit of a hassle to prep/hang the draws, but you'll appreciate having them hanging, as the route is pumpy enough.

With strategic sling length, rope drag wasn't as issue. The main obstacle was the spookiness of pulling the crux (BSD to Road Rage) while sideways out from the previous draw (Jackie Chan). There was a bit of rope out at that point, and you're not that high off the ground. A fall here demands an attentive belay, but is reasonably safe as long as the catch is not too soft.

Make sure you have the High Voltage finish wired- If you can make it to the Road Face rest the send should be in the bag! Sep 3, 2012