Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jeff Wenger, Colleen Brennan, 4/02
Page Views: 20,168 total · 177/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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158 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Straight in endurance hand jamming with cruxes at the start and finish.

Location

The obvious hand-crack at the beginning of the Main Wall.

Protection

BD 1-3 with a strong emphasis on the 2s.
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10a
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10a
If you drove to Trout Creek just for this route and left it would still be worth it. So good! Aug 3, 2009
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10-
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.10-
Amazing route.

2 #3s, 5 #2s, and a #1 Camalot will sew it up. Oct 6, 2009
Adam Volwiler
  5.10-
Adam Volwiler  
  5.10-
This route was way to much fun. Jun 27, 2011
If you climb most of gold rush, step right to the horizontal on Alchemy, and finish via the alchemy corner and overhung arete, I can't imagine a better 5.10 trad pitch anywhere. I guess the local name is Pan Handling. Jan 5, 2012
Muscrat

  5.10-
Muscrat    
  5.10-
5 #2's, 2 #3' a one and a .75. Total pumpfest! DO laps on toprope, oh so fun!
AND AS TO THE APPROACH!! If one is walking in on the road, and the second gate is not there (yesterday) one will miss the second cattle guard, and one will end up taking 1.75 hours to find the crag. As this one did. If you hit the first road cut (the road is cut through the hill, with hill on both sides and you lose sight of the river, this is the straightaway and the trail heads up here. It, the trail, is very well used; there is a park sign 100' up (why not at the junction?)
Oct 23, 2014
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
2 #3's at the start. 4 #2's if you are comfy on that size, and a #1 for the top and you are as golden as the route. If not solid on 5.10 wide-hand/perfect-hand take an extra 1 and 2. Nov 12, 2014
Sarah Enera
  5.10-
Sarah Enera  
  5.10-
Really great route!

If you don't have four or five #2's, don't fret. I thought I had four 2's, but ended up only having three (then later realized the fourth is more like a 2.5 (had 2 BDs, a Totem, and the 2.5 is a DMM demon).

The first time I lead it I placed two 3's, two 2's, a 1, another 2, then 1 in the final moves out of the hand crack. Where I placed the 1 is about 2/3 the way up where you're still fully in the #2 territory, yet there's a slight constriction which is perfect for a #1. I was bumping a two up and getting stressed that I didn't have a fourth 2, then came upon the constriction; placed the #1, took out my third two, continued climbing, happily placed my last two, then into the exit moves (where it goes to #1 size). Worked out great!

Second time I lead it I had realized the DMM sizing so I did: two 3's, the 2.5, three 2's, and the 1. Also worked out great. Aug 31, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10a
I love this route.

I like to protect using the finger crack at the start to avoid having a cam in the way when getting my feet into the primary crack. Use either a black Metolius or #.75 BD C4 with alpine draw.

From there, I use two #3s, 4-5 #2s, and 1-2 #1s.

Pro-tip: Make sure your tape gloves or otherwise aren't too thick. My crack gloves made the last move to the anchor quite difficult. Going to tape made it easier to jam. Nov 13, 2018