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Routes in (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Bad Moon Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cows in Agony S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desolation Row T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Down's Syndrome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jzero TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moons of Pluto S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Palo Verde T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reason To Be S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming Yellow Zonkers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow of Doubt S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sundown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tale of Two Shitties T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trezlar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Kent Benesch Alan Watts 1982
Page Views: 10,344 total · 68/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A very interesting route. It wanders a bit, and has a lot of variation. Zig zag your way up the face to a final steep move below the anchor.
Careful lowering off.

Location

between Moons of Pluto and Cosmos.

Protection

9 bolts with fixed biners at the anchor. As always, TR off your own draws.
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
The bolts have all been replaced and positions improved. They are bomber now and the route is perfectly protected. Not too many bolts, not too few bolts. Just right.....

As good as 5.10 gets at Smith. Good, fun knob pulling! A 60m just makes the belay ledge, so watch your ends. May 13, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Did this climb Moons of Pluto and Bad Moon Rising. These were my introduction to the knobs and I love them. Three best pitches I have done at Smith in my three days of climbing there. Jun 15, 2008
Frogmen83  
 
Excellent line! Aug 27, 2009
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.10b
I felt that no one move on this was any harder than the hardest moves on Cosmos, it's just really sustained. And I mean that in the sense that all the moves are about the same 10b level of difficulty, not that there aren't rest stances. There are actually a few places where you climb past pockets, and can stuff your feet into those pockets and get really comfy no-hands rests.

Wonderfully long, sustained, great. Do it! Aug 1, 2011
JGHarrison harrison
Reno, NV
 
JGHarrison harrison   Reno, NV
 
Awesome climb. I think its the best archetypal climb of the grade for Smith Rock. The little nubbins you balance up characterize so much of what makes Smith sweet. Oct 30, 2011
pdxuller  
 
Perfect smith nubby 5.10. Nubs and more nubs. Well bolted, lots of fun. The bolts are newer and totally fine. I don't remember it wandering very much, except at the top where you move right to the anchors. Oct 9, 2013
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
 
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
 
did this on TR a few days ago and loved the blank section towards the top. Pinching and pulling on knobs is so much fun. Jul 16, 2014
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
The start looked like it needed a clip stick more than most routes at smith. Maybe it's easier than it looks - don't know, didn't climb. Sep 5, 2016
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
Bozeman, Montana
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow   Bozeman, Montana
The start for this and Moons of Pluto is much easier than it looks. If you're a 5.10 climber, you'll be fine--and you'd need an enormous stick clip to get the bolt anyway. But yeah, don't fall before the first bolt. It'd be catastrophic. Nov 9, 2016
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
 
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
 
went back for the lead. Still incredible, but I have to reiterate how well bolted this thing is. Perfect clipping positions and spacing!

must do along with Moons of Pluto Apr 14, 2017
HEADS UP!

I pulled out a bolt in this route today. By pulled I mean the bolt jiggled out of the hole while I was rapping to clean it. Super spooky. It was the fifth or sixth bolt, in the vicinity of the crux so be ready for a huge runout on the steepest part of the wall. We left the bad bolt tied to the first bolt with some cord as a warning. I don't know who to contact about rebolting, but anyway it should probably be a glue in for that spot.

Super great climb, true to grade, get on it if you dare! May 18, 2017
Jennifer Strauss
  5.10b
Jennifer Strauss  
  5.10b
6/3/2017 - There was a bolt hanging from the first bolt of the route. It appears the bolt protecting the crux came out. Jun 4, 2017
Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
Kyle Tarry   Portland, OR
Crux bolt missing as of 6/17. Makes the crux section extra heady! Jun 17, 2017
Missing bolt has been replaced. A big thank you to the anonymous rebolter! Jun 25, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10b
Tremendous route!

The first bolt is high, but fear not: You're just a high-foot away using bomber jugs.

Also, stay left at the beginning to experience some great side-pulls to the start of the nub staircase.

This route is similar to Cosmos to the left, but more consistent and sustained. It's quite long! Oct 22, 2017

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