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Routes in The Northern End

Anorexic Doughboy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bedside Manner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beer Float, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperado T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Girls with Chim(n)ay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gods Must Be Angry, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Googlie Moogli T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lively Up Yourself T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninjinski T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northern Throne, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ol' Dirty Bastard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plumbline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rodeo Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 66 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Salad Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shasta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sleepy Hallow T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talkin' It Clean T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Underground Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Moderate T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Usual Suspects T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Noah Vibbert T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggle Room, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Nate Bohling, Jamie Wenger
Page Views: 1,064 total, 11/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Sep 22, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land Details

Description

Twin cracks pinching off to a funky crux at the top. The Wenger guide gives it 5.10+, so clearly, I disagree, but you should go see for yourself.

Location

Around the corner to the north of Talkin' it Clean. Look for a small block with twin cracks above and a horizontal break on the left at about 15-20 feet.

Protection

Singles from BD 2 down to small (grey C3)

Photos

Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
 
Marlin Thorman   Spokane, WA
 
You can definitely protect it with small nuts (BD stoppers #4-7 range), but for 20 feet the crack is so small you don't really even have finger tips. And the only place you do have good tips is the spot you will probably want to place a stopper. Felt very insecure and hard for the grade. Sep 9, 2016
The Wiggle Room is just left of Usual Suspects. It is not at the far left as stated here. The crack at the far left is Ninjinski and is 5.10-.

Very fun climb but bring small nuts to protect the top. You won't find cam placements for about 20 feet.

Super fun climb; climbs different than most routes at Trout. Not just stemming or straight in jamming. Oct 7, 2015
419
Sacramento
419   Sacramento
Bring RP's. Aug 5, 2012
jeffw  
Over the years this climb has really cleaned up and I agree it is now much easier than 5.10+. Apr 29, 2011