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Routes in The Northern End

Anorexic Doughboy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bedside Manner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beer Float, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperado T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Girls with Chim(n)ay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gods Must Be Angry, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Googlie Moogli T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lively Up Yourself T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninjinski T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northern Throne, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ol' Dirty Bastard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plumbline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rodeo Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 66 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Salad Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shasta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sleepy Hallow T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talkin' It Clean T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Underground Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Moderate T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Usual Suspects T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Noah Vibbert T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggle Room, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 385 total · 19/month
Shared By: Michael Richichi on Oct 26, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This may fall under "Northern End Moderates" in the Rakkup guide, but I think it's worth pulling out and mentioning here! To the left of Route 66, around the two bulging columns, is a nice stem box with thin seams on either side and some horizontal breaks on the middle column. Climb up the steeper section, then move in to the left crack when it goes much less than vertical for some awesome low angle hand and foot jamming.

Location [Suggest Change]

Left of Route 66 and right of bright green lichen column, starts in stem box.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Gear through 3", traverse right to get to Route 66 "anchor" (one cord and two slings wrapped around a boulder with one locker and one non-locker). Either build an anchor for top roping, or have a follower clean the route. Be careful to not get your rope stuck when pulling it!

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Ben Stabley
Portland, OR
5.7
Ben Stabley   Portland, OR
5.7
If the 2010 Wenger guide listed this, I'd guess it would be "route 77". I guess you could traverse right to the route 66 "anchor", but you can also go straight up until topping out on a flatish area below the cliff top. Build your own anchor or use a single bolt + webbing anchor on the left. Nov 6, 2016
Michael Richichi
Portland, OR
 
Michael Richichi   Portland, OR
 
I climbed it again and continued up the crack to use the anchor you described! I think that is the better finish. Webbing plus one bolt, which is used for the wide climbs left of this one. Nov 25, 2016

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