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Routes in The Northern End

Anorexic Doughboy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bedside Manner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beer Float, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperado T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Girls with Chim(n)ay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gods Must Be Angry, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Googlie Moogli T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lively Up Yourself T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninjinski T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northern Throne, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ol' Dirty Bastard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plumbline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rodeo Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 66 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Salad Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shasta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sleepy Hallow T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talkin' It Clean T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Underground Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Moderate T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Usual Suspects T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Noah Vibbert T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggle Room, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Micha Tannenbaum, Dustin Hardgrove, 5/07
Page Views: 559 total · 16/month
Shared By: Laurel Fan on Oct 16, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Go in, yes in, the chimney. It's secure and interesting climbing with good gear in the inside cracks. But if you don't want to be in there forever, at some point you need to get out...

Location

The deep, dark chimney between Sleepy Hallow and Diminishing Returns. If you don't see it you might be inside it.

Protection

Gear to 5". The guidebook claims you can stop at the chains on the right. I ended up building my own anchor at the top of this route, belaying from the top, and "walking" (belayed) off left to the Sleepy Hallow anchor. Watch for loose rock at the top if you do this.

Photos

Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  5.10-
Marlin Thorman   Spokane, WA
  5.10-
You can step right to the anchors of Diminishing Returns. There are a couple small handholds halfway across the step when you are all the way at the height of the anchors. Just put a piece high in the crack before you take the step. Protects well with #1's and #2's, don't bring anything bigger than BD #3. Well worth the effort!! Jul 8, 2016

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