Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Micha Tannenbaum, Dustin Hardgrove, 5/07
Page Views: 680 total · 17/month
Shared By: Laurel Fan on Oct 16, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Go in, yes in, the chimney. It's secure and interesting climbing with good gear in the inside cracks. But if you don't want to be in there forever, at some point you need to get out...

Location

The deep, dark chimney between Sleepy Hallow and Diminishing Returns. If you don't see it you might be inside it.

Protection

Gear to 5". The guidebook claims you can stop at the chains on the right. I ended up building my own anchor at the top of this route, belaying from the top, and "walking" (belayed) off left to the Sleepy Hallow anchor. Watch for loose rock at the top if you do this.

Photos

Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  5.10-
Marlin Thorman   Spokane, WA
  5.10-
You can step right to the anchors of Diminishing Returns. There are a couple small handholds halfway across the step when you are all the way at the height of the anchors. Just put a piece high in the crack before you take the step. Protects well with #1's and #2's, don't bring anything bigger than BD #3. Well worth the effort!! Jul 8, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
I'd written this climb off for over a decade and finally climbed it yesterday. It was super fun! Go do it. +1 for placing a directional and stepping right to the Diminishing Returns anchor. Oct 28, 2018