All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Northern End

Girls with Chim(n)ay

Name: Girls with Chim(n)ay
Rating: 3.2

5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in The Northern End

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anorexic Doughboy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bedside Manner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Beer Float, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Craig Luebben Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Desperado T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Girls with Chim(n)ay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gods Must Be Angry, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Great Googlie Moogli T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Lively Up Yourself T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mr. Green Jeans T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ninjinski T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Northern Throne, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ol' Dirty Bastard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Plumbline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rodeo Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Route 66 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Salad Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Shasta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sleepy Hallow T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	T-Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Talkin' It Clean T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Underground Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown Moderate T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Usual Suspects T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Where's Noah Vibbert T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Wiggle Room, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Zippin' Your Shin Skin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA:	Micha Tannenbaum, Dustin Hardgrove, 5/07
Page Views:	1,777 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Laurel Fan on Oct 16, 2015
Admins:	Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries Details

2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

Go in, yes in, the chimney. It's secure and interesting climbing with good gear in the inside cracks. But if you don't want to be in there forever, at some point you need to get out...

Location

The deep, dark chimney between Sleepy Hallow and Diminishing Returns. If you don't see it you might be inside it.

Protection

Gear to 5". The guidebook claims you can stop at the chains on the right. I ended up building my own anchor at the top of this route, belaying from the top, and "walking" (belayed) off left to the Sleepy Hallow anchor. Watch for loose rock at the top if you do this.