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Routes in The Main Wall

Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
California Weakender T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Chicken T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gas Chamber T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Landing a Monster T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lou Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Main Stream T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Squiggles T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Muffin Top T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Out of the Question T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Space Mission T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 3 AKA: Wally's Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Hidetaka Suzuki
Page Views: 4,429 total · 40/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 13, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Classic double cracks.

Some of the best backstepping, finger jamming, and stemming that you'll ever see on a 5.10. The two finger cracks provide ample secure jams, and the gear goes in easily.

Location

One route left of Mr. Squiggles.

Protection

Fingers to hands. You can probably sink a lot of medium nuts for the first half of the route.

Photos

This route has a fun extension. We had hoped to stay in the contrived finger crack, but a few stacks of blocks convinced us to use the corner. With a few minutes of easy trundling, the finger crack would be good to go. From a belay on the rim, we walked right to the JR Extension anchors and rapped. Nov 6, 2012
Muscrat

  5.10+
Muscrat    
  5.10+
I just walked up to this and did it...and completely flailed and failed. Did not realize that it was a double crack (so much for my 'purity' ethic) OH....Use both cracks? I get it! FUN!! Dec 4, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
Yep. Probably a tad harder if you ignore the left crack. Makes for a nice 11-ish variation. (a good second stage warmup if you're getting on a fingercrack after) Honestly, it feels more straightforward to me. (albeit more powerful) Pretty sure the left crack has been contrived at 12-/12ish too. Dec 8, 2014
An anchor has been added to the extension up and right. The finger crack doesn’t feel too contrived... you’re able to use the crack to a scoop/bulge, and fun face climbing on pockets to the anchor. The blocks above the Suzuki anchor remain, so tread lightly or trundle. Oct 1, 2018
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
Did some (frighteningly easy) trundling the other day. The big triangle block is still there and seems solidish. In terms of contrivance, it doesn't feel too bad, but the corner is for sure sitting right there beckoning you to come over the whole time. Overall I thought this one was pretty fun! Oct 19, 2018

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