Type: Trad
FA: Hidetaka Suzuki
Page Views: 4,495 total · 39/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 13, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Classic double cracks.

Some of the best backstepping, finger jamming, and stemming that you'll ever see on a 5.10. The two finger cracks provide ample secure jams, and the gear goes in easily.

Location

One route left of Mr. Squiggles.

Protection

Fingers to hands. You can probably sink a lot of medium nuts for the first half of the route.

Photos

This route has a fun extension. We had hoped to stay in the contrived finger crack, but a few stacks of blocks convinced us to use the corner. With a few minutes of easy trundling, the finger crack would be good to go. From a belay on the rim, we walked right to the JR Extension anchors and rapped. Nov 6, 2012
Muscrat

  5.10+
Muscrat    
  5.10+
I just walked up to this and did it...and completely flailed and failed. Did not realize that it was a double crack (so much for my 'purity' ethic) OH....Use both cracks? I get it! FUN!! Dec 4, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
Yep. Probably a tad harder if you ignore the left crack. Makes for a nice 11-ish variation. (a good second stage warmup if you're getting on a fingercrack after) Honestly, it feels more straightforward to me. (albeit more powerful) Pretty sure the left crack has been contrived at 12-/12ish too. Dec 8, 2014
An anchor has been added to the extension up and right. The finger crack doesn’t feel too contrived... you’re able to use the crack to a scoop/bulge, and fun face climbing on pockets to the anchor. The blocks above the Suzuki anchor remain, so tread lightly or trundle. Oct 1, 2018
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
Did some (frighteningly easy) trundling the other day. The big triangle block is still there and seems solidish. In terms of contrivance, it doesn't feel too bad, but the corner is for sure sitting right there beckoning you to come over the whole time. Overall I thought this one was pretty fun! Oct 19, 2018