Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Nate Bohling, Jamie Wenger, Jeff Wenger, 4/07
Page Views: 4,494 total · 39/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Nov 8, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Awesome, varied climbing. Sequency moves off the ground yield to a spectacular finger and hand crack that will take you to the ledge. From here, work up a unique wide crack to an exciting move out a roof to the chains. This would make for a great first Trout Creek 5.11-.

Location

Two lines climber's left of Wondertwins is an enormous, very sketchy-looking block. California Weakender climbs the crack to the stembox left of the block.

Protection

Doubles of BD's O C3 to #2 C4 with an extra #3 C4. Most people place in a smaller crack in the back of the wide crack to avoid hauling up big cams. I was wishing I had slings to extend some of these placements.

Photos

Alex Shainman
Las Vegas, NV
 
Alex Shainman   Las Vegas, NV
 
Relatively hard for the 11- grade compared to say U4. Cool line and climbs more like a granite route. A Stopper fits really well for first move off the pillar... Some may want an extra #1 Camalot for last move. Jun 2, 2013
Jack Lazar
Portland, OR
 
Jack Lazar   Portland, OR
 
This is a fantastic climb that has something for everyone. I even got to use my signature beached whale technique--twice. I brought a #6 mastercam (≈#1 Camalot) to protect the roof move, but found myself wishing I had instead saved my Camalot .75. Jun 28, 2014
Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
 
Chris Sepic   Bend, OR
 
You can protect the top wide bit below the roof with a .75 off the rest and then a #3 with a sling which can be walked up until you can get a piece in the roof. Might need to have longish arms though. Dec 11, 2014