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Routes in The Main Wall
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Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Approach, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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California Weakender T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chinese Chicken T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Community Pillars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flying with Goldens T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Holding the Line T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ideal Schedule, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Immortal Illusions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Landing a Monster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lou Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Main Stream T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Main Wall | 6624, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mr. Squiggles T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Muffin Top T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Out of the Question T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Rightway T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Shadow Casting T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Space Mission T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown 1 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 3 AKA: Wally's Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 44.80197, -121.10859 |
| FA: | Pat McCarthy, Jeff Wenger, 200(?) |
| Page Views: | 1,729 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Jun 18, 2012 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure/Private Land Boundaries
Details
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
Stout! This route is the harder version of Monster, but has an easier grade. (hmmm...) In any case, it's a super-aesthetic splitter that looks like it should be straight-forward fingers, but isn't. The start is characterized by thin and powerful locks that are yet to be comfortized by the countless ascents other, more popular finger cracks have seen. (on my first lead go, my right index finger went numb for five minutes)
Like Monster, once you've punched through the short, lower crux, you've just got to keep it together through a couple more bouldery moves and it's in the bag. Expect some airy, funky climbing up high before the chains.
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