Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Pat McCarthy, Jeff Wenger, 200(?)
Page Views: 738 total · 9/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Jun 18, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Stout! This route is the harder version of Monster, but has an easier grade. (hmmm...) In any case, it's a super-aesthetic splitter that looks like it should be straight-forward fingers, but isn't. The start is characterized by thin and powerful locks that are yet to be comfortized by the countless ascents other, more popular finger cracks have seen. (on my first lead go, my right index finger went numb for five minutes)

Like Monster, once you've punched through the short, lower crux, you've just got to keep it together through a couple more bouldery moves and it's in the bag. Expect some airy, funky climbing up high before the chains.

Location

In between Long March and Tawtnuk Tiichem. Look for the obvious, likely chalkless, aesthetic splitter to a ledge about 25' up.

Protection

2-3 purple TCUs, many blue TCUs (6 would not go unused), 2-4 yellow, and a couple orange. Singles up to 2" will do it from there. (moving off the ledge above the crux is best protected by two blues, so save 'em! It's also nice to have  #1 at the top)

Photos

Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
Zach Harrison   Flagstaff
Cool route, a bit more varied feeling then some other lines here. Just my opinion, but you can get by with only 3X of blue TCUs, don't need 6. Very odd, hard moves down low are only bested by the strenuous to place gear. Looks straight forward, but its not. Nonetheless, a good line. Sep 23, 2015