Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Brooke Sandahl, Stevie Byrne, mid-80s
Page Views: 1,908 total · 18/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Apr 17, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Another classic Trout twin-crack stembox. Fire through the low, fingery crux to the better jams and enjoyable traverse up high. Feels reminiscent of Space Mission, but a full number grade easier.

Location

This is the third climb left of Suzuki. It has an obvious leftward traverse that finishes at the chains of the neighboring route. (U3)

Protection

Double rack from BD 0.3-2 with one #3 should suffice. Slings might help managing the rope for the finishing traverse.

Photos

RyanLazzeri
  5.10+
RyanLazzeri  
  5.10+
Really fun route! I have never used the right crack in this 'double crack'. The right crack is quite thin, but you can stem on it a bit. The traverse is easily done- sling a cam early to prevent drag. Do it! Jan 4, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.10
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.10
I climbed an extension of this to the rim today and hope to add a bolted anchor for it soon. It was quite good albeit slightly committing climbing around the roof on an awesome 2 finger pocket and a jug. I took it to the rim via the flake on the right side of the alcove, but will probably position the bolts to avoid that finish as it wasn't that amazing. The hardest moves around the roof are kind of the 5.10+ version of Immortal Illusions and are pretty fun. Oct 31, 2018