Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,842 total · 33/month
Shared By: Nathan Scherneck on Jun 1, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

This offwidth testpiece starts with about 10' of moves on an inside edge, then it's hand stacks, armbars, calf locks, and knee locks to the tippy top. Enjoy!

Location

just right of The Long March. Shares the anchor.

Protection

Many #4s, #5s, and #6s

Photos

davidbr  
Don't know where you'd put a #4 on this. It's 5's and 6's all the way. To protect the mantel onto the pillar at the top, you can also place something the size of a #2 and/or a piece in the .5 range. Jul 3, 2014
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
  5.10d
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
  5.10d
I tried leading this about 6 or 7 times in 2003/04 and never got it clean. Guess I'm not a 5.10 climber ;-)
We called it "Small Fry", but I guess the name didn't stick. There was a 20" x 20" x 1" plate flake remarkably unbelievably balanced on a tiny edge that we knocked off in a very memorable near miss on the first attempt, about 15 feet below the top; yikes. Mar 2, 2015
I climbed this in October 2006 when in Trout Creek with a group of mostly Seattle-area climbers. Our group was pretty confident it was unclimbed at the time and had not heard of any previous names. Lara Kellogg, Mark Westman, and I had just been climbing together in Yosemite and my original name of Lara's Muffin Top was a joking reference to her ongoing critique of the dubious fashion choices made by Valley visitors. It's no wonder the name has been shortened considering that Lara never had a muffin top. Aug 11, 2015
Chuck Becker
Portland, OR
  5.11-
Chuck Becker   Portland, OR
  5.11-
Sustained! One tipped out #4 can be placed low on the route, in the first 10'. After that it's all 5's & 6's - 3 of each wouldn't go unused. Jun 13, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.10
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.10
Not sure why this is 5.10 and Redside is 10+. This feels like honest 5.10 offwidthing and Redside feels like 5.9 wide with a 5.10 approach. Used Chuck's rack beta (minus the #4) and it was perfect. Took the small piece for the top and placed it, but wouldn't again. Nov 9, 2016