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Routes in The Main Wall
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[Redacted] T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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California Weakender T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chinese Chicken T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Community Pillars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flying with Goldens T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Holding the Line T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ideal Schedule, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Immortal Illusions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Landing a Monster T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lou Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Main Stream T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mr. Squiggles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Muffin Top T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Out of the Question T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Rightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Shadow Casting T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Space Mission T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown 1 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 3 AKA: Wally's Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Brett Yost & Karl Sutton |
| Page Views: | 1,427 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | adam winslow on Apr 11, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
This is a grunt that will force you to use everything from hand and fist jams, to armbars, sidepulls, and possibly even some chimney techniques. Much of the route can be done with a left armbar, a right hand or fist jam, and working the feet up the double cracks. Towards the top, things change as the cracks offset more and the outer portion of each crack forms a "double arete squeeze chimney" (if such a thing actually exists). Probably as many ways to climb this next 20 feet as there are climbers. Exit over a block wedged between the two cracks (reachy and strenuous) to a chain anchor.
Location
This is the double crack route just to the left of Suzuki, which is the double crack route just to the left of the unmistakable Mr Squiggles. The left crack is an offwidth and the right crack is a gradually widening hand crack. Towards the top of the climb the outer side of each crack juts out further from its inner side forming a unique "double arete squeeze chimney" that will give climbers of different sizes each their own unique experience trying different climbing techniques as they ascend this feature.
Protection
Choose which crack to protect - Left crack: pro to 6", Right crack: pro to 4.5". Of course you could protect in both if you feel so inclined. My preference would be to keep the smaller right crack clean for jams and push the big boys up in the left crack. Chain anchor that probably will but might not have biners in it.
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