Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 739 total · 15/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Jan 15, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Climb the bouldery direct line between Steelhead and Gateway, via tiny face holds, flakes, painful tips locks, and some huge patina plates. Aerie Interlude definitely contains the hardest moves of any route at Trout Creek, but it's essentially a face climb and a series of 2 boulder problems with stances. The first is v4-v5, and the second is v6-v7. After the upper problem, you'll hit a hero jug rail on the left (similar to Mayfly) and finish up some stemming and finger cracks as per Gateway.

Airy Interlude, in the Needles, is one of the country's most famous routes. This route was established on the last day of Trout's climbing season, before the eagle nest closure. Fans of crosswords will know the word Aerie, it must be Will Shortz's favorite way to crowd in the vowels.

Location

Near the left end of the the wall, between a ringlocks splitter on the right and a grey-toned stem route on the left. This climb has very obvious patina flakes and jugs, and is easy to find. It has unique and athletic movement, huck a TR lap after doing Gateway or Steelhead!

Protection

~ 2-3x from black alien to yellow, single #2 Camalot

From the ground I placed:
Black Alien
Blue Alien
#2 Camalot
Black Alien
Silver C3
(Crux)

If you don't have a silver C3 (I don't think any other cam models are that small) I'm sure other gear is fine, maybe just a bit lower.

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12+ PG13
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12+ PG13
This thing is quite good. The movement (while no longer the hardest moves at trout) is beautiful, sequential climbing and makes it a good stepping stone from the enduro finger cracks to the harder, more bouldery routes.

The rack described above would be quite bold. It protects well with a mix of red and green c3s, the aforementioned #2, and maybe a black alien or two. Plus a selection of fingers-tips sizes for the finish. I think you could also completely avoid placing a tiny C3 with RPs which the upper crux would take quite well. Take care placing gear in the middle as the left side of the crack is quite hollow for *almost* all of the moderate moves. Nov 8, 2017