Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 587 total · 14/month
Shared By: kerwinl on Sep 27, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Very technical and strenuous stemming down low, transitions into sharp but decent locks as you move up. This climb seems out of character for Trout as there are a couple good rest throughout the route, separated by cruxy sections of stemming, laybacking and jamming, join and finish via Red Alert at the top of the stem box. It deserves traffic get on it!

It obviously has not been climbed much as the rock is a bit gritty still and there is plenty of lichen on the stem box walls, it is clean where it counts, but be prepared for some painful locks.

Location

Just to the right of U4s amazing stembox. Look for a corner with a flattened landing and a very thin crack leading up.

Protection

Doubles from Purple C3 -> Green Camalot, triples from Green C3 to Purple Camalot, plus an RP or two for the start was sufficient for me. If in doubt bring a few extra pieces in the Purple C3 to Yellow C3 range, the crack will suck them up.

Be mindful of how you protect the start, I placed a high green alien standing off the block to protect the first couple moves and placing the next few pieces as the gear 10 feet up is very good, but is small and a little fiddly at first.

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
This thing is stellar! (not surprising, given that pretty much everything's really good up there) Pretty friendly for 12-, (but not suggesting a downgrade) especially if you're decent at stemming. As Kerwin said, steadily easier cruxes interspersed with awesome rests make this an atypical route for the crag, but it's certainly a must do!

(didn't use stoppers and it was fine) Jul 10, 2016