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Routes in The Main Wall
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[Redacted] T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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California Weakender T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chinese Chicken T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Community Pillars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flying with Goldens T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Holding the Line T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ideal Schedule, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Immortal Illusions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Landing a Monster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lou Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Main Stream T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mr. Squiggles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Muffin Top T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Out of the Question T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Rightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Shadow Casting T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Space Mission T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown 1 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 3 AKA: Wally's Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Max Tepfer, 11/19/19 |
| Page Views: | 1,584 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Nov 19, 2019 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
This is one of the good ones. Great pro, classic movement, and minimal sharpness (for Trout) combine to make this a truly all time line.
It starts out with 15' of tenuous and technical stemming capped by a vicious crux getting to and from a sharp crimp and a mono. At this point, you're rewarded with a pseudo-shake before one more sequence of powerful lock-offs and stemming that culminates in a wild deadpoint to a jug. I thought the bottom crux felt something like 5.12 into V6 with a 5.12+ exit sequence.
Serendipitously more or less complete recovery is possible here before casting off on the 13 minus-ish upper half. Tackle a last hard boulder problem leaving the rest and the climbing begins to ease. The remaining moves aren't as hard, but they're pretty sustained and the continuity creates an exciting race against the pump.
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