Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Max Tepfer, 11/19/19
Page Views: 1,404 total · 29/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Nov 19, 2019
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description Suggest change

This is one of the good ones.  Great pro, classic movement, and minimal sharpness (for Trout) combine to make this a truly all time line.  

It starts out with 15' of tenuous and technical stemming capped by a vicious crux getting to and from a sharp crimp and a mono.  At this point, you're rewarded with a pseudo-shake before one more sequence of powerful lock-offs and stemming that culminates in a wild deadpoint to a jug.  I thought the bottom crux felt something like 5.12 into V6 with a 5.12+ exit sequence.  

Serendipitously more or less complete recovery is possible here before casting off on the 13 minus-ish upper half.  Tackle a last hard boulder problem leaving the rest and the climbing begins to ease.  The remaining moves aren't as hard, but they're pretty sustained and the continuity creates an exciting race against the pump.

Location Suggest change

Immediately left of Wondertwins. (easily identifiable by the orange block in the talus below the route)

Protection Suggest change

Green C3 to BD 0.5 (you could put a 0.75 in at the top, but are unlikely to need it if you're able to send the route) I used lots of red C3s/blue TCUs and the stiffest shoes I could find.