Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Cody Scarpella, Jeff Wenger 9/09
Page Views: 5,925 total · 59/month
Shared By: Wally Fox on Nov 27, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Once the hardest line at trout! It has been rumored that Tommy Caldwell gave it a 5.13- rating. This is a step into hardcore crack climbing, with potential for some big airtime if you blow the crux. What an amazing route!

Location

Left of Mr Squiggles.

Protection

pro to 1/2"
anchors at the top

Photos

Wally Fox
Bend, OR
  5.12+
Wally Fox   Bend, OR
  5.12+
Anyone have a photo of this route? Nov 27, 2010
jeffw  
Added a few photos to get YOU psyched Wally. As for the grade, it is definitely a step up in commitment compared other climbs of the same grade at Trout. Still in the same ballpark of difficulty though, and while TC hinted at a slightly harder grade, he thought 5.12+ was fair. Either way the gear is bomber and has been tested many times at the crux. Dec 4, 2010
Gargano
Arizona
Gargano   Arizona
vimeo.com/21832215?ab Apr 12, 2011
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
My only tid-bits to add:
The best line at Trout. Probably one of the best at the grade anywhere.
The whipper's not really that big. Just sideways. If they were bolts, you wouldn't think twice. Think 5.12 finger crack to V4 with a techy 5.11- finish.
Possibly the most perfectly named route in the world. Jun 28, 2013
Wally Fox
Bend, OR
  5.12+
Wally Fox   Bend, OR
  5.12+
Who is going to send May Fly direct? May 7, 2018