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Routes in The Main Wall
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[Redacted] T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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California Weakender T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chinese Chicken T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Community Pillars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flying with Goldens T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Holding the Line T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ideal Schedule, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Immortal Illusions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Landing a Monster T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lou Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Main Stream T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mr. Squiggles T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Muffin Top T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Out of the Question T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Rightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Shadow Casting T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Space Mission T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown 1 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 3 AKA: Wally's Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Max Tepfer, October 2021 |
| Page Views: | 979 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Oct 19, 2021 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
This line is completely unlike anything else at the crag and is really, really fun. (to toprope) The gear is barely good enough to allow it to go, the rock immaculate, and the movement mindblowing. (and for the record, it's awaiting a true redpoint ascent, I preplaced and preclipped my first pieces in and just below the first finger slot) Runouts and marginal pro notwithstanding, it's amazing to climb on and has cerebral, bouldery movement with just enough holds. Each crux will likely feel impossible while working out the beta and then like you're floating when you send.
Get established on the arete from the ledge below Fun Soup and fight through a gradually building onslaught of arete pinches, thin feet, and comically bad holds for your left hand. This culminates in a desperate move to the first real hold in the 'crack' and a brief opportunity to try and control your breathing. The exit moves out of the crux, while easier, are no joke and probably have some of the most serious pro on the pitch. A #3 BD Microstopper (which is annoyingly out of production-let me know if you need one) and a green c3 in a flaring slot are all you get for another 15' of physical slapping up the arete to a jug.
At the first rest, build a nest of small RPs and ballnuts before committing to more devious arete-trickery, a few desperate liebacks and stems, and a wild move to a thank-god jug with better holds and a no-hands rest above. Theoretically there's gear to be had in the section to the jug, but I wasn't strong enough to stop long enough to place it.
From the rest, place the first real cams of the route (fingers and tips) before scampering up some slightly easier moves to a wild final crux on the arete. After battling through to here, all that's left is to hang on through three very airy lockoffs and you're at the horizontal jugs below the finish to Pumphouse Park. (and, more importantly, gear) From that point, savor the comparatively simple 5.11 exit crux on Pumphouse before finally clipping the chains.
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