Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Gavin Ferguson, Pete Lynn
Page Views: 2,191 total · 20/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Thin stemming quickly opens up to better jams. The crux off the deck is tricky to protect, but there's enough gear that you won't drag your belayer off their stance.

The first ascensionists put the route up sans bolted anchor by continuing to the rim. This was pre-guidebook and others put a two bolt anchor in at a logical stance below the rim, thinking that they had done the FA.

Location

The line directly left of a large gray scar at the bottom of thin double cracks. (Steelhead)

Protection

Doubles of Purple Metolius to BD 2. A grey metolius might give you piece of mind off the deck.

Photos

Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10-
This one was really fun. The stemming is quite secure, and there's a good rest for your legs a little over half-way up. Nov 26, 2018
Eric R
 
Eric R  
 
Excellent alternative for those of us too short to stem El Matador (Devil's Tower). Nov 26, 2018