All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall

Chinese Chicken

Name: Chinese Chicken
Rating: 2.6

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in The Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	California Weakender T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chinese Chicken T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Community Pillars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Double Trouble Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Flying with Goldens T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Holding the Line T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
	Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Ideal Schedule, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Immortal Illusions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Landing a Monster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Lou Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Main Stream T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mr. Squiggles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Muffin Top T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Out of the Question T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Rightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Shadow Casting T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
	Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
	Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Space Mission T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Unknown 1 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown 3 AKA: Wally's Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Mike Tsoi, Jack Herrick, Jeff Wenger, 4/03
Page Views:	1,800 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Max Tepfer on Dec 17, 2011
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries Details

2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

Twin Cracks with a seam on the left and an off-width on the right force creative movement to create another classic route. (if you're a chicken like me and avoid using OW technique whenever possible) I suspect that this climb gets very little traffic because it has some wide bits, but don't let that deter you! It's a great climb and the widest sections are easily lie-backed.

Location

Chinese Chicken is the next set of cracks right of Fun Soup.

Protection

I don't remember needing big gear for this. I placed a lot of small stuff on the left and never felt sketchy, but you could definitely place wide gear on the right if you wanted to.