Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Brett Yost, Karl Sutton, 6/03
Page Views: 1,651 total · 14/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Start in Unknown 1's double cracks and cut left to Monster at the horizontal ledge. Finish for Monster. Excellent thin to cupped hands above the traverse.

Location

Starts in the double cracks right of Monster. (the heavily chalked tips crack that starts off the right side of JR Token's first stair-step)

Protection

Double rack from BD .3-3

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.10
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.10
Traversing with your feet on the jug works surprisingly well and, while a little delicate, is way less pumpy and eliminates the mantel move. May 5, 2011
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.10+
I thought the traverse and mantle were easier than the sustained thin jamming above. Cool route. Jun 22, 2014
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
  5.10+
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
  5.10+
Can't help but give this 4 stars. It's long, sustained and great the whole way. Onsight in the truest sense, leading this was one of the coolest experiences in my 20+ years of climbing.

Thought this was solid! at 10+ but I guess everything is getting downrated in some mad race to make Trout Creek the most old school sandbagged area in the west. Mar 2, 2015