Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Pat McCarthy, Phillip Hranicka, 4/06
Page Views: 1,867 total · 17/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Mar 29, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

This route is super-neglected. The crux is mostly just cranking hard on fingerlocks, so go get it! Climb splitter fingers and thin hands to a rest. From here, figure out the funky sequence to gain the spectacular Wartley's Revenge-esque jug climbing. Finish by firing delicate and technical climbing up the crux finger and tips crack. Awesome!

Location

This is pretty much the furthest right route on the Main Wall. There are others further, but they are of a very different character and not as classic. Hike past Time Bomb and locate the splitter crack surrounded by tiny seams. Scramble up and right to access the spacious belay ledge.

Protection

A double rack from BD. 0.75 to green C3 plus a 1 and 2 should be more than adequate to stitch this thing up.

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Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
5.11c
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
5.11c
Great route, can definitely be climbed safely with a double rack. Save a .5 or metolius orange size for your last piece, and use your purple metolius/green C3 sized pieces after the juggy sequence, that's the only part that feels punchy. Sep 9, 2014
Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
Chris Sepic   Bend, OR
This thing is awesome, get on it! I found the lower crux to be slightly cryptic. Nov 3, 2016