Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Cody Scarpella, Jeff Wenger 2/10
Page Views: 2,983 total · 29/month
Shared By: Wally Fox on Sep 23, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Crux is right at the start! Then sustained fingers to the top!

Location

left of JR

Protection

lots of blue metolius

Reservation Blues

Hard to put gear in at the beginning.

Protection

Purple works good too!

Description

Cody is a Mad Man!

Location

Right of winter sustenance and full clip

Protection

probably an orange and yellow metolius as well.

Photos

Wally Fox
Bend, OR
  5.12+
Wally Fox   Bend, OR
  5.12+
How many people have sent this? I know of two, Cody and Jesse - anyone know of anyone else? Mar 29, 2015
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12+
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12+
This thing is soooo good. Short, powerful cruxes with excellent rests interspersed throughout. Definitely longer than 90' tho. A 70m is kind of mandatory. (a 60 works with shenanigans) My perfect rack: 3x purple Mastercams, 6x blue, 2x red C3s, 2x yellow Mastercams, 2x yellow C3s. I´d also disagree that putting gear in early on is hard. There is maybe one powerful placement and then it´s not too bad. Jun 19, 2015
Chuck Becker
Portland, OR
  5.12+
Chuck Becker   Portland, OR
  5.12+
Max's gear beta is good, however climbers w a smaller sack, such as myself, may want 9-10 in the blue metolius/green alien size Sep 26, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12+
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12+
Chuck, I feel like a bit of an ass-I looked at an old rack photo and discovered that I accidentally omitted 2x green aliens from my gear beta above. That would bring the total up to 10 blue-sized pieces for the route. Sorry for any inadvertent sandbagging! Oct 5, 2016