All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall

Slim Pickens

Name: Slim Pickens
Rating: 3.0

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R

Routes in The Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Approach, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	California Weakender T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chinese Chicken T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Community Pillars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Double Trouble Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Flying with Goldens T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Geologic Time T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Holding the Line T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
	Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Ideal Schedule, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Immortal Illusions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Landing a Monster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Lou Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Main Stream T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Main Wall \| 6624, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mr. Squiggles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Muffin Top T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Out of the Question T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Rightway T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Shadow Casting T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
	Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
	Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Space Mission T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Unknown 1 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown 3 AKA: Wally's Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad
GPS:	44.80197, -121.10859
FA:	Brett Yost, Karl Sutton 5/2003
Page Views:	2,044 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Brett Yost on Nov 17, 2016
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure/Private Land Boundaries Details

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

Super classic chimney climbing, both wide and squeeze. Full body chimneying will hopefully get you to the horizontal crack break. At this point (if not earlier if you are short) you will probably be forced to commit left or right. The FA chose the left joint and and worked the squeeze to the ledge and anchor atop The Long March. This climb is a great opportunity to have an old school Yosemite like climbing experience on a beautiful feature.

Location

Obvious wide chasm left of Wengerbanger. Picture Slim Pickens riding the missile.

Protection

Standard issue wide cams will get you to the horizontal. The horizontal protects great with a finger sized cam, I believe. Above here, some nuts can be fiddled in by reaching well back into the column joint. These may be relatively blind placements. Specialized wide crack protection my be useful but I don't have specific beta.