Type: Trad
FA: Brett Yost, Karl Sutton 5/2003
Page Views: 689 total · 24/month
Shared By: Brett Yost on Nov 17, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Super classic chimney climbing, both wide and squeeze. Full body chimneying will hopefully get you to the horizontal crack break. At this point (if not earlier if you are short) you will probably be forced to commit left or right. The FA chose the left joint and and worked the squeeze to the ledge and anchor atop The Long March. This climb is a great opportunity to have an old school Yosemite like climbing experience on a beautiful feature.

Location

Obvious wide chasm left of Wengerbanger. Picture Slim Pickens riding the missile.

Protection

Standard issue wide cams will get you to the horizontal. The horizontal protects great with a finger sized cam, I believe. Above here, some nuts can be fiddled in by reaching well back into the column joint. These may be relatively blind placements. Specialized wide crack protection my be useful but I don't have specific beta.

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.9 R
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.9 R
A fun, adventurous outing. Didn't see much use for nuts. This climb is quite runout if you don't bring wide cams. Crawling out the top on the left finish was one of the more ridiculous (in a good way) things that I've done out there in a while. This felt harder and is much more serious than Time Bomb. Nov 4, 2018