Type: Trad
FA: Jason Huston and Dylan Johnson (11/06)
Page Views: 3,451 total · 30/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 13, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Monster starts as a tricky tips crack that gradually opens up to fingers and hands.

The technical crux comes fairly low, but after a couple of decent rests in the middle you'll still find yourself looking at a good deal of ever-widening hands before you reach the chains.

The opening sequences can be made significantly easier if you cheat a bit by laybacking and using the next crack over to the left, but if you're a purist try going straight in.

This is an incredibly fun route.

Location

Just to the right of JR Token. Start on the block and climb the chalked tip jams on your right.

Protection

Small gear (tips) to large hands.

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12-
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12-
The consensus on the grade of this route from many who climb at the crag regularly as well as some very talented visiors is that it's more of a 12-. In either case, come expecting thin locks, bad feet, and difficulties seeing the next good lock right off the deck. Oct 28, 2009
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11+
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.11+
Well that makes me feel a little bit better about my effort. I thought that the opening moves were pretty burly for an 11. Nov 4, 2009
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12-
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12-
So, despite my comment above, I (and a few others) now feel slightly differently about the grade. Shortly after the consensus bumped it up to 12-, new beta came to light and now I'm skeptical of whether or not the rating is consistent with other routes of the grade at the crag. In any case, know that if you figure out the easy beta, it's going to be a very quick tick for Trout 12-. Sep 10, 2012
Alex Shainman
Las Vegas, NV
 
Alex Shainman   Las Vegas, NV
 
Fun splitter after the crux. Painful start! Ouch! Jun 2, 2013
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
5.12-
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
5.12-
Would love to see the "easy" beta for this. I worked this a bunch with a handful of folks who all flashed 12a in the Lower Gorge and no one ever got it clean. Mar 2, 2015
kerwinl
  5.12-
kerwinl  
  5.12-
If you have big hands and fingers expect it to still feel hard for 11+, FWIW I thought the opening on this was significantly harder then the Alchemy crux or a few of the other 12- on the main wall. Either way its a great route, with solid gear. Sep 27, 2015