Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: John Rich and friends, mid '80s
Page Views: 10,434 total · 91/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Scramble up two stair-cased pillars to access a beautiful hand crack. Follow this down through the sizes to a tapering thin crux.

For the 5.12 R finish, climb straight up past the chains to the rim. For gear, the guide recommends 'a strong head.' (don't clip the chains, good gear can be found in the horizontal on the right wall that better directs your fall off the crux)

Location

20' left of Gold Rush. Look for the obvious broken pillars that mark the start.

Protection

BD .75-3 with an emphasis on the .75-2 range.
The fullest-value version of JR:

Start in a finger crack/shallow left-facing corner on the left side of the broken pillar, which is 5.10 liebacking off the ground. Climb the normal route. From the anchor, step left into a steep finger crack with face holds, which leads up into a corner and on to the 2nd anchor at the very top of the wall. This is TR-able with a 70m rope, but not a 60 unless you do all sorts of pillar-scrambling shenanigans and other scary stuff. Dec 13, 2012
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
There are two extensions to this route, the JR extension heads left out of a roof while Immortal Illusions tackles the overhang to the right, with your last pro in the horizontal. May 19, 2013
Jack Lazar
Portland, OR
 
Jack Lazar   Portland, OR
 
You can protect against the potential pendulum when moving up into the JR Token extension with gear smaller than BD .75. I used a #2 mastercam (.4 BD) after stepping left past the 1st set of chains. Useful info to know, esp. since you might want those larger pieces for JR Token proper. Jun 28, 2014