Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Main Wall

Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
California Weakender T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Chicken T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gas Chamber T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Landing a Monster T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Squiggles T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Muffin Top T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Out of the Question T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Space Mission T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
U3 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
U4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Cody Scarpella, 2008?
Page Views: 857 total, 13/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on May 24, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land Details

Description

The name says it all. This route is the advanced version of Double Trouble and features sustained, semi-monotonous stem-work from bottom to top. Hip to Toe is another neglected classic that deserves far more attention than it gets. (likely due to the gear) If you're dialed in on the TC friction and stemming, the grade will feel right on, otherwise, it'll be doubly desperate. Either way expect more steep, classic climbing on bomber (albeit thin) gear from bottom to top.

Location

In between U1 and Gold Rush. Look for a twin-crack stem box with two cracks about a foot apart.

Protection

I brought 3x yellow TCUs, 7x blue TCUs, 5x Purple TCUs, 3x Gray TCUs and used them all. If you're bold, you could definitely do with less.

Photos

0 Comments