Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Will Stanhope, Mike Doyle, Ben Moon, 4/08
Page Views: 1,652 total · 17/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Apr 20, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Another killer line. It's worth considering that this line and it's neighbor to the left were both put up on-sight, ground-up, on the same trip by one person.
Full Clip is basically the stemming version of Winter Sustenance. Climb through a seemingly endless 60' of yellow and blue metolius to a brief crux move followed by a tenuous no-hands stem. After this, it's another 20' of sustained 5.10+ to the chains.

Location

Full Clip is the endless fingers corner in darker rock immediately right of Winter Sustenance. (the elegant, super-chalked fingers splitter)

Protection

The rack that worked great for me was:
4 blue metolius
8 yellow metolius
1 red metolius (opt.)
That being said, it'll eat pretty much anything in the blue-orange range (esp. yellow) and a red is nice to have for the top.

Photos

Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
TR'ed this yesterday, what a stellar route! Most of the locks are really good, sometimes sharp. I didn't find that no hands rest but to be honest I would probably prefer a no feet rest!

PS three years later after I did this:
Straight in foot jamming and stemming are options for most of the climb, which makes it not-so-monotonous. I think it’s a really good 12+ to try if you’re breaking into the grade.

My rack was 2 blue sized, a yellow/green alien (could be a regular cam) 9 yellow/.4 sized, 3 orange/.5 size and a black. Jun 25, 2015