Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Max Tepfer, 11/26/18 |
Page Views: | 1,126 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Nov 26, 2018 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
From theflyfishingforum.com: The shadow cast, no doubt, is a dramatic performance to witness. When done properly, it rivals the artistic beauty of the sweetest ballet. Unfortunately, it really has no real useful place in our casting arsenal. While being a sight to behold, it serves no other purpose other than to impress our friends and foe. Yet still, it remains a cast worthy of effort provided you have the time to learn it well.
This thing has some amazing movement guarded by some suboptimal protection. Scamper up Lou Dog's opening chimney to a sit down rest before the business. 20' of physical moves on generally good holds lead to a final no-hands on a sloping shelf. Above this is another 20' of brilliant, thin stemming and arete pinching with somewhat marginal pro. From the finishing jug, I climbed right and scrambled up to the Lou Dog anchor to lower off. Spanning over to Lou Dog would be hard if you're short.
This thing has some amazing movement guarded by some suboptimal protection. Scamper up Lou Dog's opening chimney to a sit down rest before the business. 20' of physical moves on generally good holds lead to a final no-hands on a sloping shelf. Above this is another 20' of brilliant, thin stemming and arete pinching with somewhat marginal pro. From the finishing jug, I climbed right and scrambled up to the Lou Dog anchor to lower off. Spanning over to Lou Dog would be hard if you're short.
Location
In between Rocinante and Lou Dog. Shares a start w/Lou Dog and is easily TR'd from the anchor with a yellow C3 as a directional.
Protection
I pink pointed the whole thing because the gear is quite thin and not always exactly where you want it. (and I'm kind of a chicken) Bring lots of red/blue ballnuts, rps, a handful of purple and green c3s and a finger sized cam or two. A hammer and funkness can be nice for testing and/or fixing small gear placements.
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