Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Cody Scarpella, Greg Garretson, 8/08
Page Views: 2,415 total · 23/month
Shared By: Wally Fox on Jun 3, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

A double crack leads to a technical seam stem problem with various openings just big enough for finger tips.

Location

Just to the right of squiggles.

Protection

The double crack will take one and two inch pieces. When you reach the seam, purple and blue metolius tcu's or just run it out to the horizontal, which will take an orange metolius.

Photos

Wally Fox
Bend, OR
  5.12-
Wally Fox   Bend, OR
  5.12-
running it out to the horizontal would be super bold, something I would never do. Sep 21, 2010
Dave E.
washington
Dave E.   washington
beta!!! there is a decent left hand, thumbsdown fingerlock about halfway through the crux that can be tremendously helpfull Oct 13, 2010
Alex Shainman
Las Vegas, NV
 
Alex Shainman   Las Vegas, NV
 
Moderate start to sequential stemming/bridging/palming/tips moves in the crux followed by a not as exciting but fun headwall finish. The inside of the crux crack is still kinda crunchy so it makes you work a little more to get the pro perfect. Start is mostly #2 Camalots but you could place a #1 & #3 too. Sew up the crux with (3) #0 & (1) #1 TCU's and/or Master Cams, or #0-#1 C3's, etc...I used a #1 & #3 Camalot and a #1 TCU for the remainder. Jun 2, 2013
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
I worked this a bit in '03/04 but wasn't that close. Glad to see it made it in the .12 range, I don't feel too bad. The thin fingers and slots were tearing me up and the feet were desperately gritty I was sorely tempted to give it a wire brushing or light pinning. But Jeff and everyone were sending everything ground up, old school, no hanging and I wasn't going to be the first to break down and dog. Mar 2, 2015