Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Max Tepfer, 10/10/2014
Page Views: 2,081 total · 41/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Oct 10, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

This route is short. Aside from that, there's not much you can say against it. Sustained, technical cruxes, near-perfect rock, and beautiful positions highlight this classic line. The movement on this is completely atypical to your standard Trout Creek crack climb.

Begin with hyper-technical stemming and liebacking between a narrow off-set and a shallow dihedral. After pulling onto a decent stance at mid height, get back what you can before firing off a slightly harder mirror image of the Mayfly's crux lieback. From here it's only another 10' of .12- on sequential, flaring fingerlocks to the jug. Finish by mantling onto the jug and climbing up and left on positive holds to the chains. (the last sequence is a tad contrived due to the anchor location, but is a more aesthetic and classic finish that avoids moderate climbing on a big suspect block out right)

Location

Left of Out Ridin' Fences. Scramble up the chimney to the pillar ledge. The line starts off the left side of the ledge.

Protection

Purple-yellow TCUs. Many blue TCUs/Red C3s, one #1 C4, stoppers useful.

Photos

Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
 
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
 
I love this climb, I learned a lot about myself in the process of repeating it. I'd say it's one of the best routes at trout, but comparing the routes here is meaningless. Cerebral, powerful, moves with challenging stances for bomber gear, a unique route at Trout. It reminds us of Oxygen at the Morning Glory Wall, but on gear. In between Max and my ascent several holds broke or crumbled, some making moves slightly harder or easier, but I don't think the grade or quality was ever impacted. My rack was in Metolius: 0/1 (could be a 1), 7-8x 1, 1-2x 2, 3, & 5. Oct 18, 2017
Mikey Schaefer
Redmond, OR
Mikey Schaefer   Redmond, OR
Excellent climb. Bit different than some of the harder climbs at Trout. Climbs more like a face climb than others. Only thing I'd note gear wise is I'd take one or two green C3's. These probably aren't needed if you have the rig wired but for first try they might be nice. Oct 17, 2018