Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Max Tepfer, 10/10/2014
Page Views: 2,277 total · 39/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Oct 10, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

This route is short. Aside from that, there's not much you can say against it. Sustained, technical cruxes, near-perfect rock, and beautiful positions highlight this classic line. The movement on this is completely atypical to your standard Trout Creek crack climb.

Begin with hyper-technical stemming and liebacking between a narrow off-set and a shallow dihedral. After pulling onto a decent stance at mid height, get back what you can before firing off a slightly harder mirror image of the Mayfly's crux lieback. From here it's only another 10' of .12- on sequential, flaring fingerlocks to the jug. Finish by mantling onto the jug and climbing up and left on positive holds to the chains. (the last sequence is a tad contrived due to the anchor location, but is a more aesthetic and classic finish that avoids moderate climbing on a big suspect block out right)

Location

Left of Out Ridin' Fences. Scramble up the chimney to the pillar ledge. The line starts off the left side of the ledge.

Protection

Purple-yellow TCUs. Many blue TCUs/Red C3s, one #1 C4, stoppers useful.

Photos