To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Alchemy
5.12-,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 4 from 46
votes
FA: F.F.A. Jeff Wenger (some pre-placed gear), 8/06 F.F.A. placing all gear on lead, David Potter, 11/06
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Trout Creek
> Main Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
Likely the most common 'first 5.12' for many at Trout. (though by no means the easiest tick...) Rattly fingers and liebacking leads to a cruxy transition into fingers and eventually a rest. From there stemming and fingerlocks will take you up to the crux stemming sequence. Finish with 40+ feet of steep, juggy, and spectacular climbing to the chains. This is one of the few slightly contrived lines at the crag with Gold Rush so close at hand through much of the hard climbing.
It's worth noting that many have awkward experiences the first time they climb to the chains. The chains are very far out to the left of the upper dihedral and if you stem up to the same level as the chains, you might be able to clip them from an ok, but exciting stance in the corner. The sequence their location was intended to force follows a horizontal out to the left arete and up the arete. It is exposed, fantastic, and a much better option.
Location
The crack to the right of Gold Rush
Protection
Lots of thin gear up to BD .75. Small and medium stoppers protect the crux moves well if you can figure out how to hang out and place them.
![Crack on the left is Gold Rush. Crack on the right is Alchemy.]()
[Hide Photo] Crack on the left is Gold Rush. Crack on the right is Alchemy.
![The whole line. Alchemy cuts right at the horizontal and finishes in the upper dihedral.]()
[Hide Photo] The whole line. Alchemy cuts right at the horizontal and finishes in the upper dihedral.
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
VT