PRINT: Rock Climb The Martian Chronicles, Central Oregon

The Martian Chronicles

5.12-, Trad,

Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Pat McCarthy & Phillip Hranicka
Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries Details

2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

Just right of Gateway is a unique thin crack. A tricky boulder start over an elevator shaft will initially catch your attention (this is hard to protect so take precaution as a fall here could be suboptimal). Tips lead to good finger locks, pass L under a roof and head to the Gateway anchor

Location

Right of Gateway

Protection

Gear to 2"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

5.12- PG13

So good! The movement on the crux is amazing and the sustained tips/stemming above is super fun too. The start is certainly heads up, but I was able to place a great RP from the 'ground' that held and mostly kept me off the talus. (My knee brushed the pillar and scraped me up a bit, but no real damage done) Regardless, it's a little real right there, so be careful. This thing should get done more as it has one of the best finger/tips cracks at the crag! I thought it was harder than Tawtnuk Tiicham and Monster, but easier than Sustenance and Alchemy.

It's worth noting that the FA was done with a 'stick-clipped' hand-sized piece in the pod and that this is a fully reasonable course of action given the start. (would eliminate the PG13 entirely) Nov 2, 2016

phillip Hranicka
Bend, OR

The FA can blame me for the pre-placed pro: I wasn't gonna rescue him if he blew the opening moves and fell down the "elevator shaft" underneath this route. Was a moot point as he hiked it. Nov 20, 2016