Me milking the feet on the first part of this stel...
Description
This classic splitter finger crack is a must do if you're up to the challenge. The route starts by climbing about 10' of overhanging jugs and then its fingers the rest of the way. The lower portion of the crack is not too bad with good feet here and there to a good rest. From the rest place a couple pieces as high as you can and fight through the crux to the chains.
Location
This route is located about 100' right of "King Cat", just look for the obvious chalked up splitter.
Protection
One yellow alien at the start and the rest is .5 Camalots and or red aliens.
This is another one to jump on if you have big fingers. For me this is THE dream finger crack, and one of the funnest routes I've ever done. Probably 10+ or 11- if you get locks all the way to the anchors.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Apr 11, 2007
... if your fingers ARE the right size. If not, then this route epitomizes frustration, for the crux has no feet whatsoever and it's well nigh impossible to lie-back the crack. Or maybe I'm just being pessimistic. I did, however, lose a lot of skin on this line, so you'll pardon my attitude.
yeah, for smaller-fingered folks, this is one of the toughest sizes to master. For me, the crux of this climb is much harder and less secure than many .12s such as Swedin Ringle or even Slice'n'Dice.
Cat Wall
RSS Feed
