The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Rich Farnham, having just finished the boulder pro...
Description
An excellent, slowly widening, finger crack on the far right side of Cat Wall, immediately right of the long 5.10 splitter (right of Fat Cat). Two stars at Cat Wall, solid three stars anywhere else.
Begin with a boulder problem start protected by tiny cams to get off the ground. The meat of the climb is the 25 foot middle section where the crack widens from tips with decent feet, to fingers with crappy feet. As with most of the classic Indian Creek finger cracks, I found the crux to be actually getting in some kind of stance to place gear.
Protection
purple metolius for the start. Double set of cams from tips to thin hands. One hand sized piece for finish.
Two blue aliens or purple TCUs will protect the start nicely. I don't recall any tips on this climb. More like bomber finger locks most of the way. The crux is bomber locks without feet. Purple Camalots work nicely.
A fun route that goes through all sizes of fingers and isn't any one size for very long. You could do this without an arsenal of the same size cams.
There is a short tips section at the start. It's just a boulder problem up to a good rest, and is well protected. There are a few crimpers on the face as well, but they aren't very good.
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