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Joey G far from the top and already gettin pumped
An awesome route, with a little bit of everything, located right above the approach trail at Cat Wall. Starts off thin and goes through all the sizes to fists in a LF corner (10 feet of good hands for everybody) to a tenuous stemming stance. Now crank a wild layback (tcu protected) to a "rest", before pulling the even more wild off-hands, body-length roof. Many have on-sighted up to the very last awkward mantle into a bottomless wide crack by the anchors, only to be spit off by the bizarre sequence. If you're tall enough you can clip the anchors before doing this move. A 50 meter rope works.
Bring one each blue and yellow tcus, two orange, two red, one #2 friend, two 2.5 friends, two-three #3 friends, and 4-5 3.5 friends (3 camalots work a bit better at the roof)
Wade chrushing the final roof pulls on King Cat.
Loren pulling the roof on King Cat
Now for the hard part. . .
unknown climber from AZ taking a crack on the King
Trying to get through the roof.
lower part of king cat; let it flow
Roof Pulling. This ain't no mantle...
The anchor is so close yet still so far away.
will baker from SLC sending the King
Willy (AkA Telemachus), campusing the roof section...
Konstantin on the classic King Cat. Photo by Lizzy...
Just under the roof
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 19, 2002
I feel it's only fair to mention that I TR'd this route, but I did pay close attention to gear, rests, sequences etc. for a future redpoint attempt, so I feel justified in adding it.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 28, 2002
I'm one of the ones who got spit off by the last move. I eventually got it by a very interesting sequence. REALLY fun route, but REALLY hard for people with tiny hands like me (Red Camalot-sized hands). You can get pumped just getting there if you are not careful!
Nov 25, 2003
Once you reach the lip of the roof,turn a layback to reach the chains. A little awkward, but it may be the easiest way to the anchor.
|By Max Schon|
Apr 22, 2004
Thankfully, you cannot clip the anchor before pulling the roof.
|By Jesse Ryan|
Jan 16, 2006
Absolutely stellar. Just smaller than fists or super super insecure cups for me at the top of the corner = placing #3 Camalot from layback. Roof Mantle = power.
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 18, 2006
great route, and the crux can be done several ways. If you haven't been on it, definitely get on this one. I used a little bit of everything from .3 camalot at the start through #3 camalot in the roof
Apr 17, 2006
freaking phenomenal. best route ive done in the creek. super insecure, hard route. im glad i got on this before i read the beta, im glad i had to figure out the roof's lip beta for myself. BURLY! super hard for those of us whose perfect hand jam is just under a #2 camalot. but its still too small to get fists. really cool. get on it. and if tuffgong reads this anytime soon, you should really contemplate getting rid of the beta, its much more fun to figure out on your own.
|By Jonas Wiklund|
Dec 13, 2007
I agree, might be the best route I've done in The Creek. Re: beta. I cannot imagine anyone getting to the lip on o/s and not figuring out how to get established above the roof. (Maybe because I am a sportclimber at heart?)
|By chris Kalous|
Mar 4, 2008
In 2003, my boy RVA from Crested Butte hung off of the last hand jam before the jug at the lip (the one with the little riblet), with both feet cut loose, pulled a beer from an auxilary chalkbag, swilled the thing, and then finished the route. Sick.
|By Bart Paull|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 28, 2008
"Turning a heinously awkward lieback" is not the best way to finish this route ...
|By Kurt Ross|
From: Boulder, colorado
Oct 17, 2011
Incredible pitch! If you clip the chains from the jug with draws extending them, you are doing a different route. It's full value if you pull the lip.
|By Joel Unema|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 4, 2011
11+, plus some