The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
An awesome route, with a little bit of everything, located right above the approach trail at Cat Wall. Starts off thin and goes through all the sizes to fists in a LF corner (10 feet of good hands for everybody) to a tenuous stemming stance. Now crank a wild layback (tcu protected) to a "rest", before pulling the even more wild off-hands, body-length roof. Many have on-sighted up to the very last awkward mantle into a bottomless wide crack by the anchors, only to be spit off by the bizarre sequence. If you're tall enough you can clip the anchors before doing this move. A 50 meter rope works.
Protection
Bring one each blue and yellow tcus, two orange, two red, one #2 friend, two 2.5 friends, two-three #3 friends, and 4-5 3.5 friends (3 camalots work a bit better at the roof)
I feel it's only fair to mention that I TR'd this route, but I did pay close attention to gear, rests, sequences etc. for a future redpoint attempt, so I feel justified in adding it.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Feb 28, 2002 rating: 5.11d
I'm one of the ones who got spit off by the last move. I eventually got it by a very interesting sequence. REALLY fun route, but REALLY hard for people with tiny hands like me (Red Camalot-sized hands). You can get pumped just getting there if you are not careful!
Absolutely stellar. Just smaller than fists or super super insecure cups for me at the top of the corner = placing #3 Camalot from layback. Roof Mantle = power.
great route, and the crux can be done several ways. If you haven't been on it, definitely get on this one. I used a little bit of everything from .3 camalot at the start through #3 camalot in the roof
freaking phenomenal. best route ive done in the creek. super insecure, hard route. im glad i got on this before i read the beta, im glad i had to figure out the roof's lip beta for myself. BURLY! super hard for those of us whose perfect hand jam is just under a #2 camalot. but its still too small to get fists. really cool. get on it. and if tuffgong reads this anytime soon, you should really contemplate getting rid of the beta, its much more fun to figure out on your own.
I agree, might be the best route I've done in The Creek. Re: beta. I cannot imagine anyone getting to the lip on o/s and not figuring out how to get established above the roof. (Maybe because I am a sportclimber at heart?)
In 2003, my boy RVA from Crested Butte hung off of the last hand jam before the jug at the lip (the one with the little riblet), with both feet cut loose, pulled a beer from an auxilary chalkbag, swilled the thing, and then finished the route. Sick.
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