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Cat Wall
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King Cat 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 11,227
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Oct 7, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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Joey G far from the top and already gettin pumped

Description 

An awesome route, with a little bit of everything, located right above the approach trail at Cat Wall. Starts off thin and goes through all the sizes to fists in a LF corner (10 feet of good hands for everybody) to a tenuous stemming stance. Now crank a wild layback (tcu protected) to a "rest", before pulling the even more wild off-hands, body-length roof. Many have on-sighted up to the very last awkward mantle into a bottomless wide crack by the anchors, only to be spit off by the bizarre sequence. If you're tall enough you can clip the anchors before doing this move. A 50 meter rope works.


Protection 

Bring one each blue and yellow tcus, two orange, two red, one #2 friend, two 2.5 friends, two-three #3 friends, and 4-5 3.5 friends (3 camalots work a bit better at the roof)



Photos of King Cat Slideshow Add Photo
Now for the hard part. . .
Now for the hard part. . .
Wade chrushing the final roof pulls on King Cat.
Wade chrushing the final roof pulls on King Cat.
Trying to get through the roof.
Trying to get through the roof.
Konstantin on the classic King Cat. Photo by Lizzy Trower
Konstantin on the classic King Cat. Photo by Lizzy...
unknown climber from AZ taking a crack on the King
unknown climber from AZ taking a crack on the King
Nathan near the roof
Nathan near the roof
King cat
King cat
Willy (AkA Telemachus), campusing the roof section, stud !
Willy (AkA Telemachus), campusing the roof section...
The crux.
The crux.
lower part of king cat; let it flow
lower part of king cat; let it flow
The anchor is so close yet still so far away.
The anchor is so close yet still so far away.
Loren pulling the roof on King Cat
Loren pulling the roof on King Cat
will baker from SLC sending the King
will baker from SLC sending the King
Just under the roof
Just under the roof
Roof Pulling.  This ain't no mantle...
Roof Pulling. This ain't no mantle...
Comments on King Cat Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 4, 2011
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 19, 2002

I feel it's only fair to mention that I TR'd this route, but I did pay close attention to gear, rests, sequences etc. for a future redpoint attempt, so I feel justified in adding it.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 28, 2002
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I'm one of the ones who got spit off by the last move. I eventually got it by a very interesting sequence. REALLY fun route, but REALLY hard for people with tiny hands like me (Red Camalot-sized hands). You can get pumped just getting there if you are not careful!

By TuffGong
Nov 25, 2003

Once you reach the lip of the roof,turn a layback to reach the chains. A little awkward, but it may be the easiest way to the anchor.

By Max Schon
Apr 22, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Thankfully, you cannot clip the anchor before pulling the roof.

By Jesse Ryan
Jan 16, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Absolutely stellar. Just smaller than fists or super super insecure cups for me at the top of the corner = placing #3 Camalot from layback. Roof Mantle = power.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 18, 2006

great route, and the crux can be done several ways. If you haven't been on it, definitely get on this one. I used a little bit of everything from .3 camalot at the start through #3 camalot in the roof

By Steve McCorkel
Mar 28, 2006

T.G. gave this one away. 5.11d

By misterclimberman
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

freaking phenomenal. best route ive done in the creek. super insecure, hard route. im glad i got on this before i read the beta, im glad i had to figure out the roof's lip beta for myself. BURLY! super hard for those of us whose perfect hand jam is just under a #2 camalot. but its still too small to get fists. really cool. get on it. and if tuffgong reads this anytime soon, you should really contemplate getting rid of the beta, its much more fun to figure out on your own.

By Jonas Wiklund
Dec 13, 2007

I agree, might be the best route I've done in The Creek. Re: beta. I cannot imagine anyone getting to the lip on o/s and not figuring out how to get established above the roof. (Maybe because I am a sportclimber at heart?)

By chris Kalous
Mar 4, 2008

In 2003, my boy RVA from Crested Butte hung off of the last hand jam before the jug at the lip (the one with the little riblet), with both feet cut loose, pulled a beer from an auxilary chalkbag, swilled the thing, and then finished the route. Sick.

By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 28, 2008

"Turning a heinously awkward lieback" is not the best way to finish this route ...

By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Incredible pitch! If you clip the chains from the jug with draws extending them, you are doing a different route. It's full value if you pull the lip.

By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 4, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

11+, plus some