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*Rumney Bouldering 
5.8 Crag 
Apocalypse Walls 
Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left) 
Asylum, The 
Bakery, The 
Balcony, The 
Below the New Wave 
Boundary Rock 
Buffalo Pit 
Crow's Nest, The 
Darth Vader 
G-Spot, The 
Gem Hunter 
Hail Vader 
Haunted House 
Hinterlands, The 
Höhe Hinterland 
Infinity Wall 
Jimmy Cliff 
Kennel Wall 
Left of Venus Wall (The Bradley White Wall) 
Main Cliff 
Main Cliff Right 
Meadows, The 
Monolith , The 
Monsters from the Id 
New Wave 
Northwest Passage, The 
Northwest Territories, The 
Orange Crush 
Parking Lot Wall, The 
Prudential, The 
Pulse Wall 
Roadside Attraction 
Starship Enterprise 
Summit Cliff (The Highlands) 
Triple Corners  
Upper Darth Vadar 
Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)  
Venus Wall 
Yellowknife Buttress 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Millstone Hill - West Side Rides
Two loops through the feature rich environment on the west side of the Millstone Trails Association Near South Barre, Vermont
Blue Ribbon
With 2016 comes the New Blue Ribbon! More climbing, more descending, more fun! Near Wilder, Vermont
Blue Ribbon Trail/Gile Mountain Ridge Trail
One of the best cross-country descents on singletrack in town! Near Wilder, Vermont
Gile Mountain and The Blue Ribbon Trail
A stout, switchbacking climb to a fire tower with 360° views and first prize style singletrack. Near Wilder, Vermont
Page Hill Loop
An awesome climb to Page Hill on technical singletrack. Near Hill, New Hampshire
Saco River Trail
A very easy trail designed for mom, dad, and the kids. Near North Conway, New Hampshire
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

*Rumney Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.8021, -71.8367 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 687,685
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006


83° | 58°

82° | 65°

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76° | 54°

77° | 57°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Welcome to Rumney. Ready for some rocks climbing?

Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


Rumney is one of the premier sport climbing destinations in the country. This area has become a focal point of hard sport climbing, with climbers from all over the world visiting during the fall season.

Numerous crags dot the hillside of Rattlesnake Mountain above the sleepy town of Rumney, New Hampshire. Each crag is distinct in character but similar in rock type: schist. It is the rock that sets Rumney apart. The schist is reminiscent to wood, as the rock crystals form a definite "grain."

While many sport climbing areas climb walls, the routes at Rumney climb features, be they aretes, grooves, dikes, corners, or cracks. Therefore, the lines feel more defined than at other climbing areas.

Also, unlike many other sport climbing areas, Rumney offers quality climbs at all grades. From 5.3 to 5.15a, the visiting climber can surely find a challenging and engaging route. Add a supportive and positive local scene, incredible fall colors, and well-equipped routes, and Rumney ranks among the best sport crags on earth.

For more information including the current management plan, new route moratorium areas, where to eat and stay, guides etc. check out the Rumney Climbers Association web site

Getting There 

Interstate 93 is the main north/south artery in New Hampshire. From all points north or south. Take 93 to exit 26. Follow Rt 25 West for a few miles following signs for the town of Rumney. You will go through a couple sets of lights, then a rotary, and finally 2 blinking yellow lights. At the second blinking light turn right on to Main st. In less than a mile you will cross a bridge and be in "downtown" Rumney (a small New England village. Please be courteous and drive slowly) Here you turn left on to Buffalo Rd. The "Rumney Rocks" parking area will be on your right in about a mile.

From points west, take Interstate 91 to highway 25. Head east on this and follow signs to Rumney. From points east, get yourself to 93 and refer to above directions from there.

The parking lot for the cliffs is about one mile west of town, on Buffalo Road.

Attention! DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD. Locals do not take kindly to cars clogging up this narrow road and your parking there could jeopardize access for everyone. There is also a very good chance your car will be towed. Please try to car pool when ever possible, even if it is from a nearby public lot. If the Rumney lots are full, drive back into the village and you will find free parking behind the library. It is a quick jog back. Of equal importance is DO NOT WALK OR HANG OUT IN THE ROAD! There have been numerous near misses, with cars having to swerve violently out of the way. There are trails from the lots that have been made that get you to all the crags and bouldering areas. If you really must walk along the road, it is imperative that you walk alertly, in single file, on the left and get off the pavement quickly when cars come.

Also note - The Black Jack boulders west of and including the Moat Boulder, North West Territories crag and part of Prudential crag are on private property. The owner is climber friendly, but obviously visitors should be on their best guest behavior. Keep your voices down, don't leave trash, old tarps or wood pallets under the boulders. Particularly, do not bellow profanities. The noise carries right down to his house which is below and can be quite tiresome. This is his property and you are on it at his discretion. Please keep him and his family happy with your presence

The cliffs are complex and many. Ward Smith's guidebook for Rumney is a must.

Winter Climbing 

For descriptions of Rumney's popular ice routes, see Rumney Ice Climbs.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.0 miles from here

974 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',47],['3 Stars',267],['2 Stars',462],['1 Star',164],['Bomb',27]

Classic Climbing Routes in *Rumney

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for *Rumney:
Clip a Dee Doo Dah   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Sport, 2 pitches, 300'   Jimmy Cliff
Crowd Pleaser   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches   Main Cliff Right
Metamorphosis   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   Armed and Dangerous Area (M...
Junco   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Jimmy Cliff
Masterpiece   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Bonsai
Jolt   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Hinterlands
Lonesome Dove   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Jimmy Cliff
Underdog   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Main Cliff
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Armed and Dangerous Area (M...
Millenium Falcon   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Main Cliff
Peer Pressure   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Bonsai
Waimea   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Waimea
Flying Hawaiian   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Waimea
Flesh For Lulu   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Meadows : Holderness Corner
Whip Tide   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Waimea
Technosurfing   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Waimea
Giant Man   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Hinterlands
Predator   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   Orange Crush
China Beach   5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b     Sport   Waimea
Livin' Astro   5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b     Sport   Waimea
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in *Rumney

Featured Route For *Rumney
Rock Climbing Photo: Kayte Knower bathes in alpenglow on a winter after...

Suburban 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  NH : *Rumney : Waimea
Suburban is more of a variation than a full route. It climbs the first seven bolts of Urban Surfer (5.13d), hence the name, to a big knee bar rest.The climbing gets progressively harder until the crux sequence, a powerful and very awkward reach to a crimp, at the sixth bolt. A right kneepad is helpful for resting before the crux. Suburban is perhaps the most popular 5.13 on the cliff, as the moves are fun, not too heinous, and easy to work. It even finishes at a logical spot, a no h...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of *Rumney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a more detailed overview of the crags and ...
BETA PHOTO: Here is a more detailed overview of the crags and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ground Photo of the western faces.
Ground Photo of the western faces.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just a selection of the sweet trad routes at Rumne...
BETA PHOTO: Just a selection of the sweet trad routes at Rumne...
Rock Climbing Photo: A Google Earth view of Rumney with trails mapped u...
BETA PHOTO: A Google Earth view of Rumney with trails mapped u...
Rock Climbing Photo: it has been proven that you cant climb hard with a...
it has been proven that you cant climb hard with a...
Rock Climbing Photo: lily up on the prow of predator photo by mathieu f...
lily up on the prow of predator photo by mathieu f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ummm...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lily water bouldering....
Lily water bouldering....
Rock Climbing Photo: A common sight at Rumney. Beautiful sunsets.
A common sight at Rumney. Beautiful sunsets.
Rock Climbing Photo: random strong guy on china glide
random strong guy on china glide
Rock Climbing Photo: The RCA is happy to announce that we will be hosti...
The RCA is happy to announce that we will be hosti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Early morning view from above orange crush :)
Early morning view from above orange crush :)
Rock Climbing Photo: Piper, the resident donkey at the campground acros...
Piper, the resident donkey at the campground acros...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rumney
Rock Climbing Photo: From Schist Another Guide
From Schist Another Guide
Rock Climbing Photo: Details here:
BETA PHOTO: Details here:
Rock Climbing Photo: I am reposting this with a couple of improvements....
I am reposting this with a couple of improvements....
Rock Climbing Photo: Rumney, NH. June 2011
Rumney, NH. June 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing in late April with passing snow flurries.
Climbing in late April with passing snow flurries.
Rock Climbing Photo: Damn! Some serious rope burn. Results of the Rumne...
Damn! Some serious rope burn. Results of the Rumne...
Rock Climbing Photo: <3 that feeling
<3 that feeling
Rock Climbing Photo: this is an updated trail map... the pink trail are...
BETA PHOTO: this is an updated trail map... the pink trail are...
Rock Climbing Photo: Vertical Dreams is hosting our annual fund raiser ...
BETA PHOTO: Vertical Dreams is hosting our annual fund raiser ...

Show All 49 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on *Rumney Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 16, 2016
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 1, 2007
Today I was outraged to watch as an ignorant redneck threw a half-full Redbull can from his pickup truck at a climber's face....the climber was a nice, unsuspecting dude walking well off the road....
He only sustained a cut on his chin, but WTF? I never thought I'd see that on Buffalo Rd....
We were unable to get the plate number on the truck...bummer....
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 29, 2009
These days id say Mountainproject is a must since this is the best guide to rumney!!! :)
By jenner
Jun 19, 2009
We climbed Rumney last month and loved it! I have to say that the best part of the weekend stay (other than climbing) was camping at Mountain Pine's Campground. It's only about a mile away from the climbs and the owners are amazing. We were there Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Friday's weather was beautiful, as was Saturday until it started to pour Saturday night. We would have been soaked if the owners hadn't stopped by and put up a canopy so that we could finish cooking dinner. They also wheeled down a whole bunch of fire wood to keep us warm. That's unheard of where I come from. Cheers to the owners!
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 22, 2009
From climber1949 on: July 20, 2009, 11:34:18 AM:

There is now a small climbing shop at the Tenney mountain Ski Area, they carry petzl, harness, helmets, ropes, biners, draws etc and they have climbing shoes and helmets for rent. There is also a cool zipline canopy tour and mountainside yurts for rent! 888-289-1020
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 8, 2009
Until the guide comes out the maps ive been posting can serve as a "Ghetto Guide"... Here is a link to a forum where ive posted the 30+ maps ive put up so far... Print em out and at least you will know most of what is there and how hard it is...
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Sep 10, 2009
Considering replacing some top anchors next time i'm up as a lot of these are worn through. What would be the accepted variety to use? a regular screw link on a hanger, Or a setup similar to Fixe.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 10, 2009
I thing the best thing to put woud be rap rings so people dont top rope of them as much so they wont wear out as fast. it will be very appreciaed if you do change/fix the worn gear we need more people like you.
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Sep 11, 2009
Hell ive left 4 binders up there already to lower off. Would a 1/2 screw link and a new hanger be sufficient? Although i think quick clips would be a bit easier on some of the harder clips.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 11, 2009
Half inch quicklinks work great. 3/8" is fine for the top ones if you want to save a little. The 1/2" ones take the wear much better. I wouldn't bother with stainless steel quicklinks unless they are on stainless hanger type anchors or spots that stay wet a lot. Just make sure to put 2 on each hanger so the rope will run correctly. Spray them with some grey or black rustolium to take the shine off while you have them at home. I like them better than quickclips for the reason mentioned before; less of an urge to directly TR through them.
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Sep 12, 2009
Are the quick clips removable from the repel ring or do i need a new hanger
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Sep 14, 2009
would a 3/8 stainless or 7/16 plated be sufficient?
something like these
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 15, 2009
I have always been under the impression that 3/8 or bigger and steel is the best bet, i did a little reading and it didn't say anything about stainless vs plated, so I am not sure about that. Anyone else have anything to add? JComeau thank you for the effort you are putting into this, we need more people in the climbing community who are willing to help out.
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Sep 16, 2009
For me its simple. I climb there. I enjoy the place. I may not climb the hardest routes, but part of its mine and ito me its part of climbing there. Take care of it and it will last. No free rides for me. I dont mind putting in a little effort to pay back the oppurtunity to cimb there.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 16, 2009
You have inspired me I am going to be looking into fixing some anchors to, Just know we all appreciate the work you are will to put in to benefit everyone else thank you
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Sep 17, 2009
Not a problem. Its only fair. You cant take it for granted. So many times i see when somone brings to somones attention, yet do not act on it themselves for what ever reason.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Sep 23, 2009
Please folks, be courteous and clean your tick marks when you are finished. It DOES degrade other peoples experience.
By James Otey
From: NH
Oct 27, 2009
So as to dispel any rumors about the Firetrucks and Sirens around pole 37 two Saturdays ago: A climber broke his leg while trying to make a ropeless ascent of Supernova. He is fine and expected to make a full recovery. Luckily he had friends with him to aid with the rescue.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 27, 2009
Afterthoughts: a worthwhile read
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jan 14, 2010
Hello Everyone

Im wondering about climbing at Rumney mid-winter. I would guess there are some cliffs that are better than others, in terms of like sunshine and snowmelt, etc. Does anyone have any advice on this? Probably main cliff and jimmy cliff are good destinations, any others?
By James Otey
From: NH
Jan 14, 2010
Prudential, Waimea, and Monsters are all good winter destinations.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 14, 2010
Main cliff, prudential and Waimea are the most consistent... yellow knife can be good too as well as darth vader and a couple others
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Mar 17, 2010
ATTENTION: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant.

Please consider alternate cliffs until this area stabilizes.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 21, 2010
Repost from NEClimbs:
I went up last night and early this morning and cleaned off most of the sketchy stuff that I could see. Any of you who were climbing or hanging out below since the avalanche would have been horrified if you had been able to see the stuff above you. A bunch of car hood size chunks slid off with hardly a nudge along with a ton of dinner plate size and smaller.

What originally fell out was a 40 foot wide by 20 plus foot high chunk of stone, from the top pitch of Iron Man all the way over to next to Rock Du Jours at the level of The Thang anchors. It was basically a humongous flake situated in a corner and sitting on a steeply down sloping ledge. It looked like a solid wall from below, the way most saw it, but from the top one could see that it was already detached and had a 9 inch crack behind it. The resulting ledge, once it is cleaned up more and the Thang anchor is replaced, looks like it would be a stunning place for a lunch or safety briefing. You could reach it by traversing in from Rock du Jours easily with some small cams for pro or by climbing the Thang.

Some bad news: I did notice a broken egg that looked like a peregrine's to me and was fresh enough that it had to be from this year. It was probably originally about the size of a hen's egg, browny red with speckles. I don't know much about Peregrines, but hopefully if they aren't disturbed, they will lay another.

Affected routes: The third pitch of Iron Man looks like it will be a lot harder, but still very doable and when it is cleaned up and a new top anchor put in, a nice, exposed, mostly trad test piece.
The Thang needs new anchors and a good sweeping of the top. The anchors were in the bottom of the giant missing flake. Rock du Jours seems unaffected. Gold Member and the Goldbug finish need their tops swept off.

I think most of the worst stuff has been removed, but it is probably a good idea to be especially careful where you hang out at the Main Cliff for a while.
By MelissaR
May 30, 2010
New Rumney Guide has been out since Christmas. Its excellent.
By Brian Paquette
Oct 20, 2010
The Common Cafe in Rumney New Hampshire 1/2 mile from The Rocks parking has great breakfasts and dinners (often music in the pub upstairs too) Check out our websight at for more info. Its been a great climbing season so come on in and say hello.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Oct 20, 2010
Brian and the Commons Cafe provided the climbing community with some awesome coffee for the Nor'easters ACC pancake breakfast. Thanks a lot Brian, I hope visiting climbers recognize your support.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 20, 2010
Rumney Bouldering, these are routes from Black Jack and The Pound!
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
May 20, 2011
Whats the deal with camping here. IS it still cool to camp across the street at the farm?
By Lisa Russell
Sep 23, 2011
Camping at Mountain Pines Campground. Prices for all rock climbers all year is only $10.00 pp per night. Each site is private, picnic table and fire pit. Hot shower! No Reservations needed! We are open until the snow falls. Located just 2 miles from Rumney Rocks. Camp sites on Baker River.

Address is:
2759 Rte 25
Rumney NH 03266 any questions call 603-786-9955.

Hope to see you here!
By AdamJ13
From: Denver, CO
Sep 29, 2011
Do I still need to buy a Recreation Pass for my car if I plan on camping at the Farm (and leaving my car there) and just walking across the street to the crags?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 29, 2011
No, it is a parking pass. So as long as you do the funny walk across the street and through the lot, no fee.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 13, 2011
Some cool video footage of David Graham, Luke Parady and Joey Kinder from back in the day.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Dec 20, 2011
I added a Southern White Mountains:Rumney conditions section to the so you can post up and check current conditions without cluttering it up too much here. If you post conditions there (please do), try to keep it on topic to keep it uncluttered and useful for finding quick information. Thanks.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 9, 2012
I'd recommend using the Eastern States forums to find a partner. Posting here deters from crag comments.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 9, 2012
A 70 m rope is not required for most of the climbs, but it adds a safety margin to quite a number which are right at the limit of a 60 m and allow linking of some pitches. I would recommend the 70 for the Orange Crush, Main Cliff and a few routes at the Hinterlands/Yellowknife areas.
By ryan cosman
Jul 15, 2012
Hey guys just as a heads up the fixed draws on the roof of man overboard at wieama are NO GOOD, they're groved and cut the sheaf on a French climbers rope yesterday, Luckly we were able to rescue belay him down, but PLEASE PLEASE get te word out, trying to spread the word as much as possible
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 15, 2012
its great that no one was hurt... we knew this was happening but thanks to the never ending ethics war over fixed draws nothing has been done! lets do something before we hear a tragic story instead of a scary one...
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 15, 2012
There is nothing to keep people from removing worn gear but a little effort. Please do so if you see any. The roof of Man Overboard is one place where it seems there is a pretty strong consensus for the need for fixed slings, so if they were replaced with good quality, low visual impact stuff, it would not be a problem. Again, please remove old crappy gear even if you can't replace it, and don't just leave it for the next person. It is much better for somebody to not be able to easily get their redpoint than to have their rope cut.
By S. Neoh
Jul 15, 2012
ClimbTech now offers PermaDraws that have grey (instead of bright blue) tubing covering the cable part of the all-steel draw in an attempt to offer a product that has less visual impact.
A significant number of fixed draws at Rumney are past their useful life. My personal opinion is either replace the aluminum and nylon hardware with steel or remove the fixed draw(s) altogether ... before someone gets hurt or dies.

Here's more ethics war material - is the 'techno' ladder at Waimea gone for good or not?
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 16, 2012
Hey guys, it is really good to hear that the climber is fine and a tragedy was adverted. Up until now I have kept my opinion out of the fixed draw debate because I don't climb the routes with fixed draws, I'm not strong enough. However, I do not see the difference between fixed quickdraws and perma-draws. Quickdraws are fixed on many of the climbs in the .12 and up range. So why not equip them with a safer option? I have never seen anyone remove the draws on any of the routes that are currently fixed so they can hang their own gear. This is just my opinion and I hope it does not created a volatile discussion on the ethics, just seams to me that safety should take a priority. Cheers!
By iBolt
Jul 16, 2012
I'll agree it was great that no one was hurt...

But, I'm having a very hard time seeing this as a battle in an "ethical war," rather than a case of someone who didn't take personal responsibility for his actions and safety and made a bad mistake.

Fortunately, he was very, very lucky.

The draws on "Man Overboard" have been there for a long time, too long... Was it responsible behavior to blindly trust a piece of gear that has been technically "abandoned" for years?

Obviously, there were other climbers at the cliff at the time: was it responsible behavior for the all knowledgeable "locals" not to point out that the draws are old and crappy? (After all, we're told in the above post that, "we knew this was happening....")

Did the climber have any responsibility to look at the gear and make an informed, personal decision as to his own safety?

Consider this: If you were going to try a route with the potential for a big whipper 70' off the ground and the "fixed" draws" were tatty, sun-bleached and worn would you:

a) Say "Wow, they look bad, I don't know if I can trust them, I could die, I guess I'll hang my own...."


b) Say "Wow, they look bad, I don't know if I can trust them, I could die, but I'll just go for it...."


c) Not even realize that a natural, outdoor climbing crag is NOT the same as a climbing gym (which are: for-profit, insurance regulated, micro-managed for safety,) and just assume that "someone else" is making it safe for me, and there is no need for me to have the faintest clue of how bad a mistake I could be making...

I believe it's dishonest to try to blame this near tragedy on a lack of support for putting perma-draws on every bolt of every hard route at Rumney.

It was human error that placed the fixed draws on the route, it was human error that didn't remove them when they got tatty, it was human error when no one warned the unfortunate climber of the bad condition of the draws, and it was human error when he clipped the draws....

Doesn't sound like there was any "ethics" involved...

If safety is the main concern, isn't it more safe for each individual climber be responsible for at least their own quick-draws?

By JHeath
Jul 17, 2012
It seems to me that instead of trying to play the blame game about something that has already happened it would be much more productive to come up with a solution so that an issue like this doesn't come up again. After all Rumney is an area of growing popularity, and I can only foresee more epics like this happening.
By iBolt
Sep 2, 2012
someonre wrote: "We were climbing on Orangahang at Orange Crush on August 30th and another climber pointed out to us that one of the hanging draws had a really sharp carabiner on it. In view of the July incident, seems like it would be a good idea to watch for that draw and not use it."

i'm sorry if i sound like a "jerk" but a better idea would be to simply replace the "really sharp carabiner" with one of your own.

after all, someone else: cleaned the route for you, bolted the route, for you, built the trail to it, for you, squabbled with the forest service so you can climb there, for you... built the original parking lot, for you.

perhaps the least you could do to pay back some of the effort that others have done is to think: "wow, that biners worn out and dangerous... maybe i'll replace with one of my own...."

now is the time for YOU to do something to give back. it'd would be a "karma thing..."

if you climb there and something looks like it needs fixing, step up, do the right thing, and just fix it...

you don't have to coordinate with anyone, you don't have to be a member of the RCA, you don't have to spray on the internet, just fix the problem.

posting about it on the internet is not fixing it.

if the biner is worn, take it down and replace it....

By iClimb87
Nov 1, 2012
Great place to stay is Mountain Pines Campground. Not a far drive from Rumney and the owners are pretty chill. I believe the address is 2759 New Hampshire 25, Rumney, NH. It's a little further down the road than where the GPS will take you.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Apr 8, 2013
Just a friendly reminder for people to park ethically. Saturday morning a car was directly over the line in the second lot and took up two spaces. It was a busy morning, this is not cool!
By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Apr 21, 2013
Group next to us found a pair of Miura Lace ups at New Wave Wall. Placed at parking lot info sign.
By phil g.
May 11, 2013
This is a question at large. What is the ethics with replacing worn out perma gear on routes? if i decide to zone in to a project and feel like the gear on the route is dangerously worn, can i go ahead and replace it? if i decide to discard the worn out aluminum biners and replace them by long lasting steel ones, is that cool?

Thanks in advance for the opinions guys and gals.
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 11, 2013
I assume you mean fixed draws and maybe the rings/clippies at the anchor. As far as worn fixed draws, there is no ethical quandary. Remove them. Better to have nothing there than warn out stuff. As far as replacing them, the last time the RCA had a vote on fixed draws it was decided in order to keep the numbers in control and not push against the Forest Service’s strictures against them too much, to limit them to crags further from the road (primarily Waimea and parts of Orange Crush and a few individual routes or bolts where they were really needed). A further cut off of 5.12 and up was decided on (again to keep the numbers down and various other reasons like use patterns etc.)
The RCA is currently working (verry sloowly)on formulating an updated plan for fixed draws, so in the mean time, I think if the route you have in mind follows the guidelines above and you really think it needs them, go ahead and replace them. Just use good quality gear that isn’t garishly colored. I think a good balance for those replacing or putting up fixed draws to reign in the fixed draw creep is at the same time find a route with fixed draws that isn’t really being used much and remove them. It is a good way for people to make more effort to inspect the stuff that is already up more.
As far as replacing worn anchors, if you can exchange them for some nice fat ½” quicklinks or heavy stainless rings (we'are now going more to SS Ram's Horns), everybody will appreciate that.

Contact the RCA for more information. Here on MP I know smithbro is one of the board members and might have more detailed info.
By S. Neoh
May 11, 2013
Phil, I, for one, applaud your willingness to switch out manky aluminum biners for steel ones. On high traffic'ed route, I believe the move from al to steel is the right way to go as long as we are going to let the fixed draws remain on the route.
I have climbed many of the moderate, most popular routes this Spring and I have yet to see anything too worn at the top anchors. Granted I have not been on Masterpiece this year yet.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
May 17, 2013
Anyone know if you can use the America the Beautiful national parks pass for parking at Rumney? Maybe you just leave the card on your dashboard?
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
May 19, 2013
twellman-- I've always used my national parks pass and I've never had an issue (in terms of getting a ticket). I believe that somewhere (perhaps on the parking lot signs) it says that the pass is accepted. I simply leave the card on my dash.
By msdubs007
Jun 30, 2013
Was at monsters today and noticed all the draws have been removed. This is a recent occurrence, they were there a week prior. Anyone know the deal with this?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 30, 2013
the stripping of fixed gear at monsters was part of the trail work/clean up last week. Mark posted a conditions report on the monsters page to explain...
By msdubs007
Jun 30, 2013
Cool, thanks for the update Lee. I should of checked the monsters page thread. I will say the cliff looks noticebly cleaner, glad it was part of a clean up effort and not some random act of a hyper opinionated individual. Do you think other cliffs will also see a stripping of old fixed gear? Waiema?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 1, 2013
It was great seeing so many individuals and groups show up for all the trail work, route maintenance etc.

We were thinking to cycle through the crags, not all at once, but frequently enough to try to keep old and worn gear from building up. I high percentage of the fixed gear at Monsters was in a sorry state. If we can, we will try to post up a warning here and/ or on the RCA website so people can get any personal project draws off beforehand, but do remember that the 14 day rule of the Forest Service is still in place. They have been patient with us and are cognizant of the need for some of them, but they are not blind to the proliferation. It may not be possible to give prior warning since it is volunteer and a lot of work.

Everyone can help by not leaving gear up on routes that aren't being actively used or which is easily placed and removed such as with a stickclip (like ones at hip height at Monsters). Don't be absolutely completely lazy please. Remove old worn gear when you see it too, instead of expecting somebody else to do it. Lots of people put effort and time into placing fixed gear and dragging tarps and other things into the crags, but not so many into removing it all when it becomes trash.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Apr 28, 2014
Wow, they are getting kind of silly closing off the North West Passage area in my view. Even the Asylum is unlikely needed. On the other hand, I don't know why the Main Cliff is not closed earlier. A couple of weekends ago the peregrines were flying around the Main Cliff and there were mobs of people.
By S. Neoh
Apr 28, 2014
Maybe the falcons, on seeing the mobs of climbers at Main Cliff, decided not to nest here. Either way, I am not sure I want to hang out at Main Cliff yet due to the instability.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 28, 2014
It would seems like Bridge to Nowhere at Yellowknife would be more of an issue than the Asylum or NWP, but oh well.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Apr 23, 2015
Here is a link to a scanned copy of Den Danna's original 1992 Rumney guide book 'Schist Another Hangout - Rumney Rock Notes' , thanks to Benjamin Buck . It was the first published exclusive Rumney guide (after Ted Hammond's Rumney section in Webster's 'Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire' (2nd edition, 1987)
By Derek Jf
From: Northeast
Apr 24, 2015
Thanks for sharing Mark
By Eli Buzzell
From: Lives in a 4runner
May 6, 2015
Greetings Rumney Climbers,
I made a map predicting traffic at Rumney, find it here:

I'll also post a jpeg of it somewhere on here.
By Brian Shade
From: Saranac Lake, NY
May 9, 2015
We spent the weekend in Rumney last week. It was very helpful to use the mountain project app due to the book being out of publishing. We spoke with lots of other climbers while searching for routs, this being our first time in the area. This area is very well established and well maintained. The climbers have put a lot of effort and money into making it easy for use. Though with this ease comes misuse. I stopped and informed a few visitors to the area, some new and some returning, when they were misusing the anchors. The general public that gets into climbing through their local gym and their friends don't get the education that guides and professionals in the industry have. The sign in the parking lot, "please do not top rope on our gear, use your own", doesn't explain it all. Some climbers are not informed enough. The groups that I talked to had either not read the sign or didn't know that any time the rope is weighted and running through the gear it is considered a top rope set up and is putting unnecessary wear on the gear. These climbers were for the most part thankful to have the information though others continued to use the gear how they pleased... We as a climbing community need to inform ourselves and those around us. If we don't help to keep each other accountable then these areas will not be around for us to use. Keep Rumney informed.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 11, 2015
Brian, you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink. Keep fighting the good fight.
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 11, 2015
I am not sure if Brian is referring also to being lowered rather than rapping. In most cases at Rumney lowering off the fixed anchor if you are the last one of the party is fine, in fact it is the recommended procedure by those who place the anchors.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Jul 22, 2015
What's the current status of peregrine closures? Still Yellowknife/Asylum/Summit Cliff etc.? Thanks!
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 23, 2015
normally the latest date for the cliffs to reopen is Aug 1st. Most years the closures are lifted well before this. I have seen no signs up there recently so I am thinking that it should be good... But if waiting a week is fine you should surely be in the safe zone by then :)
By Gabriel D.
Aug 19, 2015
Just had a beer at the common cafe corner of Quincy Road and Main Street in Rumney, awesome place, awesome owners! they have four 2nd edition mike ward topos left & they're not selling them for fortune. Maybe just a small one :)
By Derek Jf
From: Northeast
Aug 27, 2015
mike ward topos? must be those super-secret limited edition underground gb's
By Guillaume L
From: Montreal, QC
Sep 9, 2015
I'm not sure if this is common knowledge but this past Labour Day weekend the parking lots were full and we were able to park (3$/day) at the big barn on Buffalo Road right before the first parking lot. Much closer than parking in town. The man also had camping spots.
By RamonMarin
Mar 23, 2016
I'm a visiting climber from Spain. Does anyone know a good place to stay in Rumney area that is not a campsite? There are a few motels in Plymouth but I'd rather be somewhere with cooking facilities. Any suggestions greatly appreciate it. Ah! Any must-do routes recommendation also welcome. Thanks a bunch
By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 23, 2016
The Little House Inn It is owned by local climbers Pete and Shana Jackson (great people) and is right in the Rumney village, across the street from the Common Cafe and only 1/2 mile from the crags. They have both bunks and private rooms and a well equipped kitchen available to guests. I stayed last fall and waking up in a big elegant bed with tons of pillows and a view over the village I was thinking I wanted to move in permanently.
By jhchughes
May 18, 2016
Does anyone know if it's a) Legal b) allowed c)"ethically OK" to sleep in your car in the parking lot? Assuming you've paid for both days, have the pass up, are not disruptive...

If not that (which I would totally understand), can you still camp across the street at the farm?
By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
May 18, 2016
It is neither legal nor ethical to camp in the lot. You can pay to camp across the street. There a few other pay campgrounds around town too. Additionally, you can camp primitively in the white mountain national forest, look up the requirements online and look at a map for possible locations.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 16, 2016
At Rumney we are moving more toward using Ram's Horns (also called Pig Tails) at the top anchors to provide a strong, durable, replaceable and easy to use means for lowering off that doesn't require untying. Someone posted this video in a thread

Take a look. It should help those not yet familiar with the horns.

Of course, as with other fixed anchors, avoid top roping through them directly by using you own gear to take the wear and only the last person in the party directly lowers through the horns.
By Graham O.
Jul 10, 2016
Really awesome place no matter what you climb.
From: Denver Colorad
Jul 16, 2016
Looking to hire a guide to climb with fri sept 2nd for the day! Just want someone who's fun safe familiar with the area and phyched to hang the draws and swap some leads on some routes with me!

Rumney has always been high on my Radar

If interested call me at 720 280 0633 gonna be there for a wedding so I only have one day hope to hear from ya! Angus Wiessner

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