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Moab Area

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Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Monitor Merrimac
A great beginner/intermediate introduction to Moab slickrock. Near Moab, UT
Great Pyramid
Another great trail with a small step up in difficulty compared to others in the area. Near Moab, UT
UFO
A fantastic segment combining fast flowing dirt swoops with fun slickrock. Near Moab, UT
Little Salty
An easy, fast way down from the upper trails. Near Moab, UT
Crossroads
A flat, easy, and moderately interesting connector of better trails. Near Moab, UT
Jurassic
New, simple, smooth singletrack to connect the lower parking lot to the upper Jasper loops. Near Moab, UT
EZ
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Moab Area  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,025'
Location: 38.5632, -109.542 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,896,107
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
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Clear
75° | 49°
Clear
79° | 51°
Clear
81° | 52°
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83° | 53°
Clear
72° | 43°
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BETA PHOTO: Aerial view of Castleton Tower, the Rectory, and t...

Description 

The Moab area in the eastern section of Utah is amazlingly rich with bountiful opportunities for the rock climber who can appreciate the stark beauty of soft sandstone in a desert environment. There is more than a lifetime of climbing here!

Moab is a small community, located along US 191 at the intersection with SR 128 (River Rd) south of I-70, which has become popular with the climbing and mountain biking communities of late. Its elevation at 4025' make spring and fall make for the most pleasant times for visitors. It is generally quite dry here; however, wandering along the River Road after a large rainfall can provide spectacular waterfall viewing.

Here, you can find climbs ranging from 1 pitch sport climbs up to 600' desert spires to multi-day adventures on the 900' The Titan to 1200' ridge/aid climbs like Everyman's Endless Edge. Desert spires can be hauntingly beautiful like Moses, Zeus, and Aphrodite in Taylor Canyon. Of course, there is the world-class desert crack climbing of Indian Creek. There miles and miles of cliffs along the River Road. You will find an wide range of subtle variations in rock type: the splitter-crack-forming Windgate, the ultra-soft Entrada, the gorgeous Navajo, the oddly solid-yet crumbly Cutler, the interesting mid-layers of Chinle, Kayenta, and more. You must be cautious treading on desert rock for longer-than-you-think after any significant precipitation. Most folks will find the Windgate to be most inviting here.

You climbing armamentarium will likely include beefier ropes, helmets, plenty of cams, a healthy supply of tape, and likely some anti-inflammatories for afterwards. Most adventure climbs will require at least a double set of cams. New climbs may require investigation of the pro & cons of desert anchors like drilled angle pins vs. expansion bolts vs. glue-in bolts. You will likely find your gear shedding red sandstone dust for days after your visits. New climbs in the National Parks may require particular creativity for new anchors. Some adventure climbs will require high-clearance 4WD type vehicle to allow access.

You can climb truly roadside all the way to real adventure climbing. Weather can vary from extremes of debilitating heat to mud-trapping rain storms to frosty climes. Pay particular attention to quick-moving lightning storms, since these are probably a climber's biggest threat here.

Be particularly careful with the delicate cryptogametic soils in the area which are key in providing soil stability and microbiotic communities in what looks like mud.

There are some areas with strict regulations, particularly in the National Parks like Canyonlands N.P. and Arches N.P. So, check in advance. In particular, be extremely respectful of any petroglyphs or pictographs you find.

Nonetheless, come find your personal gems here....

Accomodations 

There are a variety of options here which range from primitive bivies, to BLM camping for pay or not, to National Park camping, to motels or hotels in Moab, to fancy resort/ranch accomodations along the River Road or Castle Valley, to bed & breakfasts in Moab.

Guidebooks 

There have been a decent assortment of rock guidebooks to the area. E. Bjornstad's Desert Rock, Desert Rock I, Desert Rock II, Desert Rock IV, F. Knapp's Classic Desert Climbs, M. Comacchione's 200 Select Classic Indian Creek guidebook, Sharp End's Indian Creek Climbs, & S. Green's Rock Climbing Utah can provide starting points for your adventures.

For ice climbers, consider, D. Black's Ice Climbing Utah by Falcon Press.

Rest day activities 

If you must rest, you can select from options like rafting, mountain-biking, hiking, petroglyph viewing, wine tasting at the Castle River wineries, flying, fishing, canyoneering, and general tourist activities here. Moab provides a central point for a wealth of non-climbing adventures.

Organizations 

Note, that the Access Fund in conjuction with dedicated local climbers have been particularly pivotal in the area in preserving access to these local & national treasures. Immense thanks to those involved!

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

1,893 Total Routes

['4 Stars',299],['3 Stars',797],['2 Stars',586],['1 Star',183],['Bomb',14]
['<=5.6',40],['5.7',44],['5.8',99],['5.9',189],['5.10',603],['5.11',540],['5.12',220],['5.13',39],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',45],['V4-5',17],['V6-7',15],['V8-9',13],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moab Area:
North Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
30 Seconds Over Potash   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Potash Road : Wall Street
Kor-Ingalls Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Flakes of Wrath   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR   Potash Road : Wall Street
Generic Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
Blue Sun   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Indian Creek : Way Rambo
Jah Man   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
3AM Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Stolen Chimney   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
Supercrack of the Desert   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Incredible Hand Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Fine Jade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Valley : The Rectory
Pente   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall
Lightning Bolt Cracks   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Grade III   Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak
North Face   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Scarface   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   Indian Creek : Scarface
Annunaki   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Indian Creek : The Optimator
Primrose Dihedrals   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 7 pitches, 600'   Island In The Sky : Moses
Coyne Crack   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Way Rambo   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Indian Creek : Way Rambo
Browse More Classics in Moab Area

Featured Route For Moab Area
Greg Jackson guns for arena thrash success on nine lives.

9 Lives 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall
This is one of my favorites. Starts out good hands and slowly narrows to thin hands and eventually fingerstacks, which is the crux. It then pulls a cool traverse to a rest and finishes on a #3 Camalot sized crack through a roof. This route is found on the leftmost prow of Cat Wall. Don't miss it! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Moab Area Slideshow Add Photo
Zack on The Skeptic.  <br />May 2009
Zack on The Skeptic.
May 2009
Good times on the White Rim...
Good times on the White Rim...
NW Moab tower map.
NW Moab tower map.
Got cams?    Photo; Todd Gordon Collection
Got cams? Photo; Todd Gordon Collecti...
Get organized. <br />Photo by Todd Gordon.
Get organized.
Photo by Todd Gordon.
Climbclimbclimbclimbclimb
Climbclimbclimbclimbclimb
Zack on The Skeptic
Zack on The Skeptic
Looking out over Moab and the Colorado River from the summit of the Point of Moab. <br /> <br />What a fantastic place!
Looking out over Moab and the Colorado River from ...
Preparing for battle;   Kyle Copeland, Dave Evans, Margy Floyd, Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford.
Preparing for battle; Kyle Copeland, D...
Delicate Arch <br />Photo by: Dave Fiorucci
Delicate Arch
Photo by: Dave Fiorucci
Lisa hathaway
Lisa hathaway
Nice lines
Nice lines
Eddie icing the little guys on an early January ascent of "Ancient Art".
Eddie icing the little guys on an early January as...
Bouldering above Moab, photo: Bob Horan
Bouldering above Moab, photo: Bob Horan
The very talented Katie Brown climbing <br />for a  R & I photo camp
The very talented Katie Brown climbing
for a R & ...
awesome flyby over Moab (i think) on Delta 708, 9.29.09
awesome flyby over Moab (i think) on Delta 708, 9....
Filling Up at City Market
Filling Up at City Market
red, red, wine at the red cliff's  lodge
red, red, wine at the red cliff's lodge
Extreme wobbliness!
Extreme wobbliness!
Darcy and I in Moab
Darcy and I in Moab
leaving Kor Ingals in the morning
leaving Kor Ingals in the morning
Rope! A little mid-January canyoneering trip around Moab, UT.
Rope! A little mid-January canyoneering trip aroun...
Desert Eriogonum
Desert Eriogonum
Driving to Castleton. Gorgeous.
Driving to Castleton. Gorgeous.

Show All 35 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Moab Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Kiessel
Dec 19, 2007
Hell yes it's recommended! Climb any South face you want.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 19, 2007
Yeah, chase the sun. I've put away the rack and skiied in the La Salles in January, and i've climbed Castleton in a sweater. You just never know.

Good routes are most anything sunny at Indian Creek or Wall Street and Kor-Ingalls on Castleton. v Most long routes will be cold.
By Indian Creek 2112
Oct 15, 2009
I am an avid climber and love Indian creek so much I decided to by a hotel Inn at the Canyons, Monticello, Utah so I could be closer. I offer all climbers a 25% on rooms if you just mention you are a climber. My name is jared, owner of inn at the canyons and if you stay I can reccomend some amazing climbs that only locals know about. Hope to see you here. Reservations 435 587-2458
By Chalk Norris
From: Brighton, CO
May 14, 2012
Hey 2112 I will be coming down soon like 2 weeks and was looking for a hotel. I am super excited that you are climbing friendly. Ignore buddy (joel Hicock) I really appreciate the fact that you advertised here.
By bend
Jun 22, 2012
this is a shot in the dark but i was swimming and climbing along the colorado the weekend of 15th and left a pair of 5.10 moccasins size 9.5 at the lone boulder along potash rd next to the indian writing sign :( if someone happened to find them and then look on this site that would be amazing !

thanks and i guess ill throw a reward in :)
By Drew Hallett
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Mar 8, 2013
i was wondering where the best place to climb pure sport routes in moab is? sadly i dont have trad gear but i want to climb while im there.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Apr 3, 2013
check out Utopia for some non gear intense routes
By Fred Knapp
May 8, 2014
High on Moab, the greatest guidebook ever to the Moab area, has been sent to the printer. You can pre-purchase a copy now and get free shipping and a 2-year eBook subscription. Written by a true Moab local, the guide covers summer crags in the LaSal Mountains, as well as the classic towers, new and old crags, bouldering, recently developed sport climbing....

sharpendbooks.com

100% of royalties go the Access Fund.