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Moab Area

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Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Moab Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,025'
Location: 38.5632, -109.542 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,129,678
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
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102° | 73°
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100° | 70°
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104° | 69°
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102° | 69°
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100° | 70°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Moab area in the eastern section of Utah is amazlingly rich with bountiful opportunities for the rock climber who can appreciate the stark beauty of soft sandstone in a desert environment. There is more than a lifetime of climbing here!

Moab is a small community, located along US 191 at the intersection with SR 128 (River Rd) south of I-70, which has become popular with the climbing and mountain biking communities of late. Its elevation at 4025' make spring and fall make for the most pleasant times for visitors. It is generally quite dry here; however, wandering along the River Road after a large rainfall can provide spectacular waterfall viewing.

Here, you can find climbs ranging from 1 pitch sport climbs up to 600' desert spires to multi-day adventures on the 900' The Titan to 1200' ridge/aid climbs like Everyman's Endless Edge. Desert spires can be hauntingly beautiful like Moses, Zeus, and Aphrodite in Taylor Canyon. Of course, there is the world-class desert crack climbing of Indian Creek. There miles and miles of cliffs along the River Road. You will find an wide range of subtle variations in rock type: the splitter-crack-forming Windgate, the ultra-soft Entrada, the gorgeous Navajo, the oddly solid-yet crumbly Cutler, the interesting mid-layers of Chinle, Kayenta, and more. You must be cautious treading on desert rock for longer-than-you-think after any significant precipitation. Most folks will find the Windgate to be most inviting here.

You climbing armamentarium will likely include beefier ropes, helmets, plenty of cams, a healthy supply of tape, and likely some anti-inflammatories for afterwards. Most adventure climbs will require at least a double set of cams. New climbs may require investigation of the pro & cons of desert anchors like drilled angle pins vs. expansion bolts vs. glue-in bolts. You will likely find your gear shedding red sandstone dust for days after your visits. New climbs in the National Parks may require particular creativity for new anchors. Some adventure climbs will require high-clearance 4WD type vehicle to allow access.

You can climb truly roadside all the way to real adventure climbing. Weather can vary from extremes of debilitating heat to mud-trapping rain storms to frosty climes. Pay particular attention to quick-moving lightning storms, since these are probably a climber's biggest threat here.

Be particularly careful with the delicate cryptogametic soils in the area which are key in providing soil stability and microbiotic communities in what looks like mud.

There are some areas with strict regulations, particularly in the National Parks like Canyonlands N.P. and Arches N.P. So, check in advance. In particular, be extremely respectful of any petroglyphs or pictographs you find.

Nonetheless, come find your personal gems here....

Accomodations 

There are a variety of options here which range from primitive bivies, to BLM camping for pay or not, to National Park camping, to motels or hotels in Moab, to fancy resort/ranch accomodations along the River Road or Castle Valley, to bed & breakfasts in Moab.

Guidebooks 

There have been a decent assortment of rock guidebooks to the area. E. Bjornstad's Desert Rock, Desert Rock I, Desert Rock II, Desert Rock IV, F. Knapp's Classic Desert Climbs, M. Comacchione's 200 Select Classic Indian Creek guidebook, Sharp End's Indian Creek Climbs, & S. Green's Rock Climbing Utah can provide starting points for your adventures.

For ice climbers, consider, D. Black's Ice Climbing Utah by Falcon Press.

Rest day activities 

If you must rest, you can select from options like rafting, mountain-biking, hiking, petroglyph viewing, wine tasting at the Castle River wineries, flying, fishing, canyoneering, and general tourist activities here. Moab provides a central point for a wealth of non-climbing adventures.

Organizations 

Note, that the Access Fund in conjuction with dedicated local climbers have been particularly pivotal in the area in preserving access to these local & national treasures. Immense thanks to those involved!

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

2,225 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',358],['3 Stars',963],['2 Stars',667],['1 Star',210],['Bomb',13]
['<=5.6',47],['5.7',54],['5.8',112],['5.9',208],['5.10',717],['5.11',621],['5.12',246],['5.13',44],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',16],['V2-3',79],['V4-5',20],['V6-7',14],['V8-9',18],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',6],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Moab Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Moab Area:
North Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Kor-Ingalls Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Flakes of Wrath   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR   Potash Road : Wall Street
Chocolate Corner   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
Generic Crack   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
Blue Sun   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Indian Creek : Way Rambo
Incredible Hand Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
3AM Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Stolen Chimney   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
Supercrack of the Desert   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Jah Man   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
Fine Jade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Valley : The Rectory
North Face   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Pente   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall
Lightning Bolt Cracks   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Grade III   Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak
Scarface   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad   Indian Creek : Scarface
Primrose Dihedrals   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 7 pitches, 600'   Island In The Sky : Moses
Annunaki   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Indian Creek : The Optimator
Coyne Crack   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Way Rambo   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Indian Creek : Way Rambo
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Moab Area

Featured Route For Moab Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Well, I apologize for the photo quality  and exces...

Coyne Crack 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  UT : Moab Area : ... : Supercrack Buttress
This awesome splitter is located a couple routes to the left of Supercrack. Climb difficult rattly fingers for about 30 feet and then climb thin hands to the anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Moab Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zack on The Skeptic.  May 2009
Zack on The Skeptic. May 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: Good times on the White Rim...
Good times on the White Rim...
Rock Climbing Photo: NW Moab tower map.
NW Moab tower map.
Rock Climbing Photo: Got cams?    Photo; Todd Gordon Collection
Got cams? Photo; Todd Gordon Collection
Rock Climbing Photo: Aerial view of Castleton Tower, the Rectory, and t...
BETA PHOTO: Aerial view of Castleton Tower, the Rectory, and t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Get organized. Photo by Todd Gordon.
Get organized. Photo by Todd Gordon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eddie icing the little guys on an early January as...
Eddie icing the little guys on an early January as...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbclimbclimbclimbclimb
Climbclimbclimbclimbclimb
Rock Climbing Photo: Preparing for battle;   Kyle Copeland, Dave Evans,...
Preparing for battle; Kyle Copeland, Dave Evans,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out over Moab and the Colorado River from ...
Looking out over Moab and the Colorado River from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Delicate Arch Photo by: Dave Fiorucci
Delicate Arch Photo by: Dave Fiorucci
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice lines
Nice lines
Rock Climbing Photo: Darcy and I in Moab
Darcy and I in Moab
Rock Climbing Photo: More cliff porn...
More cliff porn...
Rock Climbing Photo: Indian Creek
Indian Creek
Rock Climbing Photo: A Delicate Morning
A Delicate Morning
Rock Climbing Photo: awesome flyby over Moab (i think) on Delta 708, 9....
awesome flyby over Moab (i think) on Delta 708, 9....
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering above Moab, photo: Bob Horan
Bouldering above Moab, photo: Bob Horan
Rock Climbing Photo: Filling Up at City Market
Filling Up at City Market
Rock Climbing Photo: Rope! A little mid-January canyoneering trip aroun...
Rope! A little mid-January canyoneering trip aroun...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Desert
The Desert
Rock Climbing Photo: red, red, wine at the red cliff's  lodge
red, red, wine at the red cliff's lodge
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa hathaway
Lisa hathaway
Rock Climbing Photo: Extreme wobbliness!
Extreme wobbliness!

Show All 42 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Moab Area Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 16, 2016
By Ben Kiessel
Dec 19, 2007
Hell yes it's recommended! Climb any South face you want.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 19, 2007
Yeah, chase the sun. I've put away the rack and skiied in the La Salles in January, and i've climbed Castleton in a sweater. You just never know.

Good routes are most anything sunny at Indian Creek or Wall Street and Kor-Ingalls on Castleton. v Most long routes will be cold.
By Indian Creek 2112
Oct 15, 2009
I am an avid climber and love Indian creek so much I decided to by a hotel Inn at the Canyons, Monticello, Utah so I could be closer. I offer all climbers a 25% on rooms if you just mention you are a climber. My name is jared, owner of inn at the canyons and if you stay I can reccomend some amazing climbs that only locals know about. Hope to see you here. Reservations 435 587-2458
By Chalk Norris
From: Brighton, CO
May 14, 2012
Hey 2112 I will be coming down soon like 2 weeks and was looking for a hotel. I am super excited that you are climbing friendly. Ignore buddy (joel Hicock) I really appreciate the fact that you advertised here.
By Drew Hallett
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Mar 8, 2013
i was wondering where the best place to climb pure sport routes in moab is? sadly i dont have trad gear but i want to climb while im there.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Apr 3, 2013
check out Utopia for some non gear intense routes
By Fred Knapp
May 8, 2014
High on Moab, the greatest guidebook ever to the Moab area, has been sent to the printer. You can pre-purchase a copy now and get free shipping and a 2-year eBook subscription. Written by a true Moab local, the guide covers summer crags in the LaSal Mountains, as well as the classic towers, new and old crags, bouldering, recently developed sport climbing....

sharpendbooks.com

100% of royalties go the Access Fund.
By Michele Reaume Hill
Feb 6, 2015
discovermoab.com/climbing_moab... just launched 2014-2015 to point out basic climbing, canyoneering and bouldering for Moab. Thanks Fred Knapp for permission to use parts of High on Moab on this webpage for Moab.
By Tommy Chheng
From: San Francisco, California
Dec 3, 2015
Is the area climbable in the winter months here?
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 4, 2015
It varies, but usually the sunny aspects are fine in the winter. Don't climb if it is wet from rain or melting snow. I've climbed Castleton in January in a t-shirt, but i've also totally frozen in March. One nice thing is that motels in Moab are typically really cheap in the winter, which can be nice during the very long cold nights.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jan 2, 2016
New Year Blocks
.
By Jerome...
Apr 15, 2016
Just a friendly reminder to everyone putting up new routes, highlines and replacing old anchors(thanks!). Camouflaging hardware is the standard, to help minimize visual impacts, and minimize any access issues. A little bit of rust colored spray paint is cheap,and goes a long way. Thanks and happy FAing.
By Nathan Bloom
May 16, 2016
I'm planning on camping in the area next weekend with the family. Any recommendations on easy 5th class rocks around that would be good to take the kids out on?

Thanks!

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