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Little Valley Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Little Valley

Alcove Left 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Alcove Right 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Bride, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 2

Bull Canyon 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Dry Fork of Bull Canyon 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Frankenstein 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Gemini Bridges Road 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Gooney Bird, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Groom, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Little Valley Routes 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Mollymawk Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Pinky Tower 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Shabazz Palace 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Whisky Caps, The 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 5

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	5,002 ft	1,525 m
GPS:	38.61827, -109.67517 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	46,763 total · 217/month
Shared By:	Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 21, 2007
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

The Little Valley, as it is defined here, is a hanging valley above US-191 about 7 miles north of Moab. You pass though it when on the Gemini Bridges Trail. The rock here, and in its side canyons, is Wingate. However, the cap rock that protects the Wingate from erosion is mostly gone, so it's not as solid as we like our Wingate...more like Navajo...or even Entrada.

Getting There

Drive 8 miles north of Moab on 191. Hang a left onto the Gemini Bridges Road. It's rough and dusty. Sometimes a 2WD can do it, but often the road requires clearance. Follow the Gemini Bridges Rd. for a couple of miles uphill until it empties into a "little valley." Bride Canyon is a side canyon in the valley.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 50 ● Ring Sizer Trad 2 pitches Pinky Tower
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 4 ● Premier Trad Alcove Right
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 37 ● Tea Party Trad 3 pitches Gooney Bird
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 4 ● Weapons Grade Trad Little Valley Routes
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 5 ● Planet Caravan Sport Pinky Tower