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Elevation: 4,674 ft 1,425 m
GPS: 37.25489, -109.83359
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 140,471 total · 524/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a remote area of high adventure climbing. Mexican Hat is one of the easiest desert summits to reach, and the approach is casual. Valley of the Gods is notorious for loose scary climbing, and this beautiful area is pretty much deserted. Well worth the long drive - you'll have any route here to yourself.

Getting There Suggest change

From Moab, take US 191 south past Monitcello and Blanding to US 163. Head west towards the town of Mexican Hat. The Valley of the Gods road is marked, and Mexican Hat is totally obvious on the south side of the highway. This is not a short drive - it is several hours from Moab.

Respect and Protect

Suggest change
Please Respect and Protect archaeological sites: Stay on trail, help prevent damage. Don’t move artifacts, let everyone enjoy the discovery. Stay out of ancient buildings and off walls, they are fragile! Report looting and vandalism: 1 800 722 3998

58 Total Climbs

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Location: Valley of the Gods Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Valley of the Gods

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
C1
 71
Bandito Route
Aid
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2 R
 4
Robbins Route
Aid
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
The Original Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
 8
East Face
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+
 7
Southwest Face
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2-
 13
Angel's Fear
Trad, Aid 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face)
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad Putterman
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Northeast Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 8
Tommy Knocker--Tomfoolery
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
 10
Supercalifragilisticexpialiputte…
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
Tides of Mind- North Face
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bandito Route Mexican Hat
 71
C1 Aid
Robbins Route Mexican Hat
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2 R Aid
The Original Route Juniper Butte
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
East Face Petard Tower
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Southwest Face Arrowhead Spire
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+ Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Angel's Fear Lady in the Bathtub
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2- Trad, Aid 2 pitches
Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South… Eagle Plume Tower
 43
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad P… Putterman in a Bathtub
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Northeast Route N Tower
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Tommy Knocker--Tomfoolery Tom-Tom Tower Area
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Supercalifragilisticexpiali… Putterman on the Throne
 10
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Tides of Mind- North Face Tides of Mind
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Valley of the Gods »

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