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McYetta's Loaf Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in McYetta's Loaf

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Plaid Skirted School Girls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1

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GPS:	37.2549, -109.8336 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,099 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Trevor Bowman on Mar 19, 2015
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This butte is often hidden behind (northwest of) Hidden Tower when viewed from the Valley Loop Road. It has fairly long north and south faces, but cuts a slender profile when viewed from the southeast, especially on the land bridge that connects with Hidden Tower. It is remarkably devoid of weaknesses, lacking any real crack systems that run full height. The one existing route involves a lengthy bolt ladder, and it looks like any other lines would involve lots of drilling too.

The setting is remote for the VOG, as it is the formation that's furthest from the loop road. The hike is pleasant though, following a meandering wash of Halgaito shale (although it sure seemed like some type of limestone).

Getting There

Drive the VOG Loop Road for about 11 miles from Highway 163, about 3 miles beyond Eagle Plume Tower. There is a hill a short ways before the Lady in a Bathtub is passed. At the bottom of the hill is a large wash composed of dark shale (limestone ?). Park off of the Loop Road in the wash and hike northwest up it for about 1.5 miles until you're below Hidden Tower and McYetta's Loaf. The wash is generally hard-surfaced and decent walking, although it meanders a good bit. Cut out of the wash and follow the best looking path up the talus cone to the base of the Loaf. We went up to the land bridge connecting Hidden Tower and McYetta's Loaf as it avoided the short choss bands ringing the hill directly below the Loaf.