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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 130 ft (39 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Frosty Weller |
| Page Views: | 2,770 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Oct 31, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The Southwest Face; I love these inspiring names.This is a fine route on a nice formation. Shady all morning. Easy aid, but requires some thought. A good starter tower for anyone who has done and enjoyed) a couple desert towers, is looking to learn aiding, and who does not want to buy specialized aid gear. Also a totally viable free-climbing challenge. Luckily it's not been done free yet, so Stu and I could aid with dignity. Maybe 1.5 stars really.
The route starts on the west side, on the obvious ledge system. It follows the very obvious crack up to and through the large roof.P1. C1+. Up to the roof, and over it to a hanging belay at fixed anchors (easily backed up with more cams). Cams range from one-inch up to about #4.5 Camalot. This is a fun pitch to lead. A pain in the rectum to clean. It will go free, and will be a very cool free pitch, but will be pretty hard. Bring several fist-sized and a bit bigger. The more you bring, the easier it is to aid, (and clean).P2. C1+, 5.9. A couple medium cams, then a long reach past a loose bit to more cam placements. Easy cam aiding round a bulge leads to an entertaining finish (use slings a to avoid too much rope drag). Belay on the left on a large ledge (two bolts).P3. 5.8. Traverse right along a horizontal break to a move up a thin short crack (a couple Aliens) which gains the summit.
Desert Rock IV calls this "A2, C2." An nicely enigmatic Bjornstadism. There is a classic Cameron Burns quote in the guide: "This route should go clean on its next ascent"Well, Stu Ritchie read this and we took a handful of pins, but I'll be dipped in dogshit if anyone can explain how they would be any use to anyone anywhere on this route.Anyway, a fun summit.Descent: A short rap to the big ledge from the top anchors (thus avoiding any potential rope drag issues), then a longer one (maybe 90') to the north to the ground.
The route starts on the west side, on the obvious ledge system. It follows the very obvious crack up to and through the large roof.P1. C1+. Up to the roof, and over it to a hanging belay at fixed anchors (easily backed up with more cams). Cams range from one-inch up to about #4.5 Camalot. This is a fun pitch to lead. A pain in the rectum to clean. It will go free, and will be a very cool free pitch, but will be pretty hard. Bring several fist-sized and a bit bigger. The more you bring, the easier it is to aid, (and clean).P2. C1+, 5.9. A couple medium cams, then a long reach past a loose bit to more cam placements. Easy cam aiding round a bulge leads to an entertaining finish (use slings a to avoid too much rope drag). Belay on the left on a large ledge (two bolts).P3. 5.8. Traverse right along a horizontal break to a move up a thin short crack (a couple Aliens) which gains the summit.
Desert Rock IV calls this "A2, C2." An nicely enigmatic Bjornstadism. There is a classic Cameron Burns quote in the guide: "This route should go clean on its next ascent"Well, Stu Ritchie read this and we took a handful of pins, but I'll be dipped in dogshit if anyone can explain how they would be any use to anyone anywhere on this route.Anyway, a fun summit.Descent: A short rap to the big ledge from the top anchors (thus avoiding any potential rope drag issues), then a longer one (maybe 90') to the north to the ground.
Protection
Gear is lots of cams, plus a bunch of slings. From about 1/2-inch to #4 Camalot. I recall we used a #5 Camalot, but it is optional. Pitch 1 is mostly fists and a bit wider, so heavy on these sizes. Maybe four of each size 2.5" thru #4 Camalot" Pitch 2 is various cams. Pitch 3 is short; a few small/medium cams. A few larger nuts might help too.
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