Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 130 ft (39 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||2,279 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Oct 31, 2002|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
The route starts on the west side, on the obvious ledge system. It follows the very obvious crack up to and through the large roof.P1. C1+. Up to the roof, and over it to a hanging belay at fixed anchors (easily backed up with more cams). Cams range from one-inch up to about #4.5 Camalot. This is a fun pitch to lead. A pain in the rectum to clean. It will go free, and will be a very cool free pitch, but will be pretty hard. Bring several fist-sized and a bit bigger. The more you bring, the easier it is to aid, (and clean).P2. C1+, 5.9. A couple medium cams, then a long reach past a loose bit to more cam placements. Easy cam aiding round a bulge leads to an entertaining finish (use slings a to avoid too much rope drag). Belay on the left on a large ledge (two bolts).P3. 5.8. Traverse right along a horizontal break to a move up a thin short crack (a couple Aliens) which gains the summit.
Desert Rock IV calls this "A2, C2." An nicely enigmatic Bjornstadism. There is a classic Cameron Burns quote in the guide: "This route should go clean on its next ascent"Well, Stu Ritchie read this and we took a handful of pins, but I'll be dipped in dogshit if anyone can explain how they would be any use to anyone anywhere on this route.Anyway, a fun summit.Descent: A short rap to the big ledge from the top anchors (thus avoiding any potential rope drag issues), then a longer one (maybe 90') to the north to the ground.