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Routes in Eagle Plume Tower

Ardbeg, Vaca & Beyond T C3-
Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzzy Crockpot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bill Forrest, Frank Luptom, 1976 FFA- Craig Kenyon, Jeff Cristol, 1989
Page Views: 4,975 total, 37/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1: Begin up a loose 5.8 crack, then a 5.7 off-width to a large ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb broken rock to a small ledge at the base of a small, clean, tight dihedral. Climb the dihedral then traverse a few feet right to a thin crack(blue alien), that guards the anchors.(5.10)
Pitch 3:Climb up some loose rock in the right crack to a dihedral ramp with fun jamming. Then climb up a loose bedding seam to a pin and traverse left to a belay on top of the seam. This is the best pitch on the route.(5.10)
Pitch 4:Climb clean dihedral above to the summit.(5.9)
Descent:Rappel the route. Desert Rock IV says you can also rappel LOLA.

Location

The route is obviously on the south side. Eagle Feather climbs up the middle of the face. The first pitch starts a little to the right of center.

Protection

Standard desert free rack.
slim

  5.10
slim    
  5.10
damn, i see that sarah meiser has climbed this twice. that's pretty hard core - this is a one-timer for me for sure! my partner did a great job on the 4th pitch - there is a long section that has a lot of different kinds of choss - big flake, small flakes, blobby chinle looking stuff, powdery fluff, etc. May 2, 2017
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
First experience in VOG, and it will be damn hard to beat!! This is as good as it gets for adventurous desert towers.

P1: Awkward 5.7+ wide crack off the deck, then a traverse left places you in a clean wide corner with a fun topout. Bring lots of #3 and #4 cams for this pitch, like three of each.
P2: Both segments of this pitch are very high quality: the initial 5.9 tight-hands corner, and the 5.10 finger crux. Above the crux the climbing is pretty cool too.
P3: Unappealing 5.9+ climbing off the belay takes you to an optional anchor. Continue upwards on the incredible dihedral with super exposed (but well protected) 5.10- crux moves at the top.
P4: Considering the quality of rock, movements, and setting... one of the best pitches I've ever met.

Easy rappel with a single 70-meter. Oct 10, 2016
The Lola rappels are recommended. Three straightforward raps with a single rope. Mar 20, 2016
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I was able to link what's listed here as P2 and P3 (there is an intermediate belay on "P3") with a 60m rope and smart use of my 3 runners... The trick is to back clean the thin hands crack at the start of P2.
Fun route! Definitely some loose stuff at the top of the penultimate pitch, including one large loose hanging flake that is unavoidable at the top of the great finger crack.
I realize this is the VOG we're talking about so it should go without saying, but be careful out there, this isn't Indian Creek. Nov 3, 2015
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
We rapped Lola too and the anchor bolts were in good shape, and the tat will definitely need swapped in the near future. Although we used two ropes since we weren't sure, it looked like a single 70m should work fine, but not positive about this! With doubled 70s we hit the large blocky ledge atop the 1st pitch with plenty to spare, and rapped on a single to the ground.
I would have liked to have had a #4 or 2 and a #5 BD on P1, as the 5.7 part felt a bit more challenging than the grade would suggest and is almost unprotectable without a #4. Mar 23, 2014
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
The Lola rappel is pretty clean and seems like a good way to avoid getting ropes stuck getting off the tower. The current webbing seemed fine to me but will need to be replaced in the near future. Mar 5, 2014
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
 
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
 
My ascent of this route years ago has really stuck with me as one of my most memorable climbing days ever. This is the best line on the best tower in the Valley of the Gods. It has some great climbing on pitches 2, 3, and 4. It also has some terrible rock on Pitches 1, 2, and 3, but I think that all the climbing 5.9 and up has good gear. Approach this route with respect and the expectation of some do-not-fall situations, and it will reward you with an incredible day. Jan 8, 2014
Ben Kiessel  
 
Check out some great pictures of the route at Brad's web site.
piquaclimber.com/past/eagle… Nov 6, 2006