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Routes in Putterman on the Throne

Supercalifragilisticexpialiputterman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Cameron Burns, Jesse Harvey, 1999
Page Views: 1,379 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1:Climb a splitter crack to a large ledge.(5.10+)
Pitch 2:Follow the obvious line up the ridge, past a bolt ladder, to another large ledge.(5.8,C1)
Pitch 3:Continue to the summit passing loose rock.(5.8)

Descent:Rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 1 and then to the ground on the east side.

Note:We combined pitches 2 and 3.

Location

This climb starts on the west side of the formation. To access, walk to the ridge on the north side of the towers and then 4th class along the east side of Putterman on the Throne to the notch between the two towers. Pull a 5.9 boulder move on the right side to reach the notch. The route starts just around the corner on the right.

Protection

Standard desert free rack. Plus a Baby angle for the bolt ladder, or a stick clip, in case the angle is no longer there.
Patrick Betts
  5.10+ C1
Patrick Betts  
  5.10+ C1
It is very possible to rap from the summit to the top of pitch 1 with a single 70m. It is exactly 35m, though and you end up on the ledge on the east side, 15ft north of the anchor. I felt, though, that that walk was fine unroped. The pull was easy. Apr 23, 2017
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
We rapped 3X with one rope (60m would work) using every anchor to avoid rapping past big ledges. Bring webbing to replace anchors, a couple of them have bolts staggered far apart. (1X) .4-#5 BD with (2X) #3 and #4 BD worked well. All pins/bolts still decent. P2 would go free, but it's heinous sugar rock. P3 has lots of loose blocks, it's easy, but tread gently. A great combo day with the Bathtub! Nov 3, 2014
Ryan Ray
Weatherford, TX
  5.9+ C1
Ryan Ray   Weatherford, TX
  5.9+ C1
climbed this a few days ago and rather enjoyed it. Nice adventure climbing. I did think that the rack listed in desert rock was rather ridiculous. It suggested a set of tcu's, two sets of cams to #5 with extra 2 to 4. We opted not to take that much and it definately was not necessary. I used only a yellow tcu on the last pitch. Did not use any #5s, the 4.5 was nice for the wide section on the first pitch. If i were to do it again i would only take a yellow tcu, 1 #.75, 1 #1, 1 #2, 1 or 2 #3s depending on aid or not, 1 or 2 #3.5s depending on aid, and 1 or 2 #4s depending on aid. and 1 or 2 4.5s depending on aid. If you aid it..i would take two of those listed and just leap frog them if you need to. I can see where you could place a #5 at the very top of pitch 1 for aiding, but its not necessary. I would only take 1 #5 if any. The desert rock IV listing is way to much gear unless you like to carry a big wall rack. If your aiding, just leap frog your big gear.

All the bolts and pitons were good with the exception of a 1/4 inch bolt on pitch 2. Its the first bolt before the piton ladder. It flexed pretty good when i moved onto it, but was secure for aiding on, but may need replacement in the future. All the fixed pitons were bomber.

We also replaced the webbing on all three belays with new cord and webbing. All the old stuff was extremely brittle and bleached solid white.

Overall a good fun easy route. Very nice Oct 23, 2010
Ben Kiessel  
 
Thanks for fixing the pin. Hahaha I made a pun. Apr 24, 2009
NIce find Cammo. Really enjoyed this. An exciting approach, then a splitter crack, then a variety of climbing styles to a great summit. Interesting steep blocky section near the summit.

Ran pitches 2 and 3 together. We saved a few minutes, but I got some annoying rope drag.

The pitch 2 baby angle was gone. There were about three existing holes. We drilled the best of these deeper and placed a full-length Standard (1/2-inch) angle. It seemed to seat fine. This hole is angled downwards so it should stay in now. Apr 24, 2009
Great post, Ben and Brad!
Cammo Jun 18, 2007
Ben Kiessel  
 
Check out our trip report at Brad's website:

piquaclimber.com/past/putte… Jan 31, 2007