Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Juniper Butte

Original Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 12/23/14
Page Views: 575 total, 17/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 28, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This pleasant moderate follows an attractive corner for two short pitches of varied climbing up the southeast face. This was the first known route on the butte.

P1-Start up a short band of loose rock, enter the clean, slabby corner that starts off-finger and widens through fists, end on a large ledge. Make a gear belay from good cracks with finger-hand sizes. (5.9, 70')

P2-Move right 15' and head up a short handcrack in a corner with unique pockets on the left wall. This ends in a short loose bit immediately below the expansive summit plateau. Rig a gear belay. There are twin cold shuts for a rappel anchor just left (southwest) of where the pitch tops out. (5.8, 30')

Hike west a ways over slabs and slots to the high point (hard to really discern). We left a register in a cairn at what we figured was the highest spot. The summit plateau is a cool spot to ramble around a bit.

Location

A clean corner just a bit right (northeast) of the center of the southeast (roadside) face. Refer to the beta pictures. The approach is pretty obvious, up talus to the base in about 15 minutes from the car.

Protection

(1x) .2-.4 (2x) .5-3 (1x) 4 BD C4 sizes, cold shut rap anchor on summit. 1 60m rope adequate.

0 Comments